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2005 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

Beach Profile

verfasst von : Nicholas C. Kraus

Erschienen in: Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Verlag: Springer Netherlands

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The beach profile is one the most studied features of coastal morphology. The shape of the beach profile determines the vulnerability of the coast to storms, the extent of usable beach for habitat and recreation, and the legal boundary distinguishing public and private ownership of land (Shalowitz, 1962, Shalowitz, 1964; Anders and Byrnes, 1991). The first modern studies of the beach profile were motivated to understand its shape and variability in support of amphibious operations during World War II, when personnel and supply boats had to cross the beach profile from offshore to the dry beach (Bascom, 1980). …

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Literatur
1.
Zurück zum Zitat Anders, F.J., and Byrnes, M.R., 1991. Accuracy of shoreline change rates as determined from maps and aerial photographs. Shore and Beach, 59(1): 17–26. Anders, F.J., and Byrnes, M.R., 1991. Accuracy of shoreline change rates as determined from maps and aerial photographs. Shore and Beach, 59(1): 17–26.
2.
Zurück zum Zitat Bascom, W., 1980.Waves and Beaches, The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface, Revised and Updated Edition. Garden City, NY: Anchor Books. Bascom, W., 1980.Waves and Beaches, The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface, Revised and Updated Edition. Garden City, NY: Anchor Books.
3.
Zurück zum Zitat Bruun, P., 1954. Coast erosion and development of beach profiles. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memorandum No. 44. Bruun, P., 1954. Coast erosion and development of beach profiles. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memorandum No. 44.
4.
Zurück zum Zitat Dean, R.G., 1977. Equilibrium beach profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf coasts. Department of Civil Engineering, Ocean Engineering Report No. 12. Newark, DE: University of Delaware. Dean, R.G., 1977. Equilibrium beach profiles: U.S. Atlantic and Gulf coasts. Department of Civil Engineering, Ocean Engineering Report No. 12. Newark, DE: University of Delaware.
5.
Zurück zum Zitat Dean, R.G., 1991. Equilibrium beach profiles: principles and applications. Journal of Coastal Research, 7(1): 53–84. Dean, R.G., 1991. Equilibrium beach profiles: principles and applications. Journal of Coastal Research, 7(1): 53–84.
6.
Zurück zum Zitat Kraus, N.C., Larson, M., and Kriebel, D.L., 1991. Evaluation of beach erosion and accretion predictors. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments’ 91. American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 572–587. Kraus, N.C., Larson, M., and Kriebel, D.L., 1991. Evaluation of beach erosion and accretion predictors. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments’ 91. American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 572–587.
7.
Zurück zum Zitat Kraus, N.C., Larson, M., and Wise, R.A., 1999. Depth of closure in beach-fill design. Proceedings of the 12th National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology. Tallahassee, FL: Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Association, pp. 271–286. Kraus, N.C., Larson, M., and Wise, R.A., 1999. Depth of closure in beach-fill design. Proceedings of the 12th National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology. Tallahassee, FL: Florida Shore and Beach Preservation Association, pp. 271–286.
8.
Zurück zum Zitat Kriebel, D.L., Kraus, N.C., and Larson, M., 1991. Engineering methods for predicting beach profile response. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments’ 91. American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 557–571. Kriebel, D.L., Kraus, N.C., and Larson, M., 1991. Engineering methods for predicting beach profile response. Proceedings of Coastal Sediments’ 91. American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 557–571.
9.
Zurück zum Zitat Larson, M., and Kraus, N.C., 1989. SBEACH: numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change. Report 1: empirical foundation and model development, Technical Report CERC-89-9, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS: Coastal Engineering Research Center. Larson, M., and Kraus, N.C., 1989. SBEACH: numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change. Report 1: empirical foundation and model development, Technical Report CERC-89-9, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS: Coastal Engineering Research Center.
10.
Zurück zum Zitat Larson, M., and Kraus, N.C., 1994. Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina. Marine Geology, 117: 75–94. Larson, M., and Kraus, N.C., 1994. Temporal and spatial scales of beach profile change, Duck, North Carolina. Marine Geology, 117: 75–94.
11.
Zurück zum Zitat Moore, B.D., 1982. Beach profile evolution in response to changes in water level and wave height. MCE thesis, Department of Civil Engineering. Newark: University of Delaware. Moore, B.D., 1982. Beach profile evolution in response to changes in water level and wave height. MCE thesis, Department of Civil Engineering. Newark: University of Delaware.
12.
Zurück zum Zitat Shalowitz, A.L., 1962. Shore and Sea Boundaries. Volume 1: Boundary Problems Associated with the Submerged Lands Cases and the Submerged Lands Acts. Publication 10-1, U.S. Department of Commerce, Coast and Geodetic Survey, 420 pp. Shalowitz, A.L., 1962. Shore and Sea Boundaries. Volume 1: Boundary Problems Associated with the Submerged Lands Cases and the Submerged Lands Acts. Publication 10-1, U.S. Department of Commerce, Coast and Geodetic Survey, 420 pp.
13.
Zurück zum Zitat Shalowite, A.L., 1964. Shore and Sea Boundaries. Volume 2: Interpretation and Use of Coast and Geodetic Survey Data. Publication 10-1, U.S. Department of Commerce, Coast and Geodetic Survey. Shalowite, A.L., 1964. Shore and Sea Boundaries. Volume 2: Interpretation and Use of Coast and Geodetic Survey Data. Publication 10-1, U.S. Department of Commerce, Coast and Geodetic Survey.
Metadaten
Titel
Beach Profile
verfasst von
Nicholas C. Kraus
Copyright-Jahr
2005
Verlag
Springer Netherlands
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/1-4020-3880-1_37