Weitere Kapitel dieses Buchs durch Wischen aufrufen
As one of the luxurious fibres, cashmere is a fine natural fibre extracted from the underbelly of a unique goat primarily found in Asia. Cashmere fibre is used to make a variety of fashion and luxury woollen products such as scarves, shawls, pullovers and cardigans. Similar to fine wine or cheeses, it can be argued that the inherent value of cashmere to the consumer relates to both the properties of the product itself (softness, fineness), and the traditions and practices associated with its production. India is the traditional hub of cashmere products for centuries, and the handmade Indian cashmere products are unmatched in artisan expertise, range, design, appearance and quality. In the last few decades, due to technological advancements in manufacturing practices, the automation of cashmere manufacturing is fast replacing the centuries-old traditional practices. As a result of these changes, the industry in India is currently facing sustainability issues. This research aims to determine how, and to what extent, automation is impacting traditional cashmere manufacturing processes and how these practices can be integrated for sustainability. To achieve this, we intend to explore cashmere luxury value chains and study the impact of automation on the value generation stages of these chains. This study will be carried out in the context of traditional craft industry making transition to the global, consumer age. Finally, based on the research aim, propositions are presented to address and integrate these aspects for future research. Through this work, a contribution to the body of knowledge surrounding cashmere industry is expected.
Bitte loggen Sie sich ein, um Zugang zu diesem Inhalt zu erhalten
Sie möchten Zugang zu diesem Inhalt erhalten? Dann informieren Sie sich jetzt über unsere Produkte:
Ahmad, F., & Nengroo, A. H. (2013). An analysis of handloom sector of Jammu & Kashmir: A case study of district Budgam. International Journal of Management and Business Studies, 3(1), 106–109.
Ammayappan, L., Shakyawar, D. B., Krofa, D., Pareek, P. K., & Basu, G. (2011). Value addition of pashmina products: Present status and future perspectives—a review. Agricultural Review, 32(2), 91–101.
Ansari-Renani, H. R. (2014). A value chain and marketing of Iranian Cashmere. Media Peternakan: Journal of Animal Science and Technology, 37(1), 61–70. CrossRef
Ashraf, S. I., Ashraf, S. N., & Hafiz, S. M. (2016). Obstacles faced by craftsmen and traders in pashmina sector: A study of J&K. International Journal of Advanced Research, 4(6), 1227–1239. CrossRef
Baba, S. H., Wani, M. H., & Zargar, B. A. (2011). Dynamics and sustainability of livestock sector in Jammu & Kashmir. Agricultural Economics Research Review, 24, 119–132.
Berger, J., Buuveibbaatar, B., & Mishra, C. (2013). Globalization of the cashmere market and the decline of large mammals in Central Asia. Conservation Biology, 27(4), 679–689. CrossRef
Bruntland Commission. (1987). Our common future. Oxford, United Kingdom: Oxford University Press.
Bumla, N. A., Wani, S. A., Shakyawar, D. B., Sofi, A. H., Yaqoob, I., & Sheikh, F. D. (2012). Comparative study on quality of shawls made from hand and machine spun pashmina yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 37, 224–230.
Chopra, S., & Meindl, P. (2016). Supply chain management: Strategy, planning, and operation. Boston, MA: Pearson.
Cuthill, M. (2009). Strengthening the social in sustainable development: Developing a conceptual framework for social sustainability in a rapid urban growth region in Australia. Sustainable Development, 18(6), 362–373. CrossRef
Franck, R. R. (2001). Silk, mohair, cashmere and other luxury fibres (p. 142). Cambridge, MA: Woodhead. ISBN 1-85573-540-7.
Gamage, P., Jayamaha, N. P., & Grigg, N. P. (2016). Acceptance of Taguchi’s quality philosophy and practice by Lean practitioners in apparel manufacturing. Total Quality Management and Business Excellence, 28(11–12), 1–17.
Ganai, T. A. S., Misra, S. S., & Sheikh, F. D. (2011). Characterization and evaluation of Pashmina producing Changthangi goat of Ladakh. Indian Journal of Animal Sciences, 81(6), 592–599.
Garvin, D. A. (1987). Competing in the eight dimensions of quality. Harvard Business Review, 87(6), 101–109.
Gereffi, G. (1994). Introduction: Global commodity chains. Westport, CT: Praeger.
Ha-Brookshire, J. E., & Norum, P. S. (2011). Willingness to pay for socially responsible products: Case of cotton apparel. Journal of Consumer Marketing, 28(5), 344–353. CrossRef
Haynes, J., Cubbage, F., Mercer, E., & Sills, E. (2012). The search for value and meaning in the cocoa supply chain in Costa Rica. Sustainability, 4(7), 1466–1487. CrossRef
Heid, M. (2016). You asked: Should I be nervous about lab-grown meat? Retrieved from http://time.com/4490128/artificial-meat-protein/. Accessed on February 23, 2017.
Higgins, A., Thorburn, P., Archer, A., & Jakku, E. (2007). Review: Opportunities for value chain research in sugar industries. Agricultural Systems, 94, 611–621. CrossRef
Kulkarni, S. S., Bodake, U. M., & Pathode, G. R. (2011). Extraction of natural dye from Chili (Capsicum annum) for textile coloration. Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology, 1, 58–63.
Lal, C., Raja, A. S. M., Pareek, P. K., Shakyawar, D. B., Sharma, K. K., & Sharma, M. C. (2011). Juglans nigra: Chemical constitution and its application on Pashmina (cashmere) fabric as a dye. Journal of Natural Product and Plant Resources, 1(4), 13–19.
Lin, L., Dickhoefer, U., Müller, K., Wang, C., Glindemann, T., Hao, J … Susenbeth, A. (2012). Growth of sheep as affected by grazing system and grazing intensity in the steppe of Inner Mongolia, China. Livestock Science, 144, 140–147. CrossRef
McGregor, B. A. (2016). Weathering, fibre strength and colour properties of processed white cashmere. Journal of the Textile Institute, 107(9), 1193–1202. CrossRef
McGregor, B., & Schlink, A. (2014). Feltability of cashmere and other rare animal fibres and the effects of nutrition and blending with wool on cashmere feltability. Journal of the Textile Institute, 105(9), 927–937. CrossRef
Mudgil, D., & Barak, S. (2013). Synthetic milk: A threat to Indian dairy industry. Carpathian Journal of Food Science & Technology, 5(1/2), 64–68.
Naebe, M., & McGregor, B. A. (2013). Comfort properties of superfine wool and wool/cashmere blend yarns and fabrics. Journal of the Textile Institute, 104(6), 634–640. CrossRef
Namgail, T., Van Wieren, S. E., & Prins, H. H. (2010). Pashmina production and socio-economic changes in the Indian Changthang: Implications for natural resource management. Natural Resources Forum, 34, 222–230. CrossRef
Nibikora, I., & Wang, J. (2010). Optimum selection of the opening roller and navel for rotor spun silk/cashmere blended yarn. Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 82(5), 35–38.
Padmavathy, S., Sandhya, S., Swaminathan, K., Subrahmanyan, Y. V., Chakrabarti, T., & Kaul, S. N. (2003). Aerobic decolorization of reactive Azo dyes in presence of various co substrates. Chemical Biochemical Engineering, 17(2), 147–151.
Patchaiyappan, A., & Yogamoorthi, A. (2014). Isolation, application and biochemical characterization of colour component from Tecoma stans: A new cost effective and eco-friendly source of natural dye. International Journal of Natural Products Research., 4, 9–11.
Patichol, P., Wongsurawat, W., & Johri, L. M. (2014). Modernizing tradition—Thai silk industry. Strategic Direction, 30(2), 31–33. CrossRef
Porter, M. (1985). Competitive advantage: Creating and sustaining superior performance. New York, NY: Free Press.
Porter, M. (1990). The competitive advantage of nations. New York, NY: Free Press. CrossRef
Prado, A. G. S., Torres, J. D., Faria, E. A., & Dias, S. C. L. (2004). Comparative adsorption studies of indigo carmine dye on chitin and chitosan. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 1(1), 43–47. CrossRef
Qian, K., Li, H., Cao, H., Yu, K., & Shen, W. (2010). Measuring the blend ratio of wool/cashmere yarns based on image processing technology. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 18(4), 35–38.
Raja, A. S. M., Pareek, P. K., Shakyawar, D. B., Wani, S. A., Nehvi, F. A., & Sofi, A. H. (2012). Extraction of natural dye from saffron flower waste and its application on pashmina fabric. Advances in Applied Science Research, 3(1), 156–161.
Raja, A. S. M., Shakyawar, D. B., Pareek, P. K., Temani, P., & Sofi, A. H. (2013). A novel chemical finishing process for cashmere/PVA-Blended Yarn-made cashmere fabric. Journal of Natural Fibers, 10(4), 381–389. CrossRef
Raja, A. S. M., Shakyawar, D. B., Pareek, P. K., & Wani, S. A. (2011). Production and performance of pure cashmere shawl fabric using machine spun yarn by nylon dissolution process. Indian Journal of Small Ruminants, 17, 203–206.
Raja, A. S. M., & Thilagavathi, G. (2008). Dyes from the leaves of deciduous plants with a high tannin content for wool. Coloration Technology, 124, 285–289. CrossRef
Ramasubramanian, R. (2004). Can environmental security bring peace to Jammu and Kashmir. New Delhi, India: Institute of Peace and Conflict Studies.
Ramsey, J. (2005). The real meaning of value in trading relationships. International Journal of Operations & Production Management, 25(6), 549–565. CrossRef
Ryder, M. L. (1984). Prospects for cashmere production in Scotland. Wool Record, 37–43.
Shakyawar, D. B., Raja, A. S. M., Kumar, A., Pareek, P. K., & Wani, S. A. (2013). Pashmina fibre—Production, characteristics and utilization. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 38, 207–214.
Shakyawar, D. B., Raja, A. S. M., Wani, S. A., Kadam, V. V., & Pareek, P. K. (2015). Low-stress mechanical properties of pashmina shawls prepared from pure hand spun, machine spun and pashmina-wool blend yarn. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 106(3), 327–333. CrossRef
Sharma, K. K., Pareek, P. K., Raja, A. S. M., Temani, P., Kumar, A., Shakyawar, D. B., et al. (2013). Extraction of natural dye from kigelia pinnata and its application on pashmina (cashmere) fabric. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(2), 28–32. CrossRef
Sheikh, F. A. (2014). Exploring informal sector community innovations and knowledge appropriation: A study of Kashmiri pashmina shawls. African Journal of Science, Technology, Innovation & Development, 6(3), 203–212. CrossRef
Singh, P., Verma, A. K., Dass, R. S., & Mehra, U. R. (1999). Performance of pashmina kid goats fed oak (Quercus semecarpifolia) leaves supplemented with a urea molasses mineral block. Small Ruminant Research, 31, 239–244. CrossRef
Trienekens, J. H. (2011). Agricultural value chains in developing countries: A framework for analysis. International Food and Agribusiness Management Review, 14(2), 51–81.
Umbreen, S., Ali, S., Hussain, T., & Nawaz, R. (2008). Dyeing properties of natural dyes extracted from turmeric and their comparison with reactive dyeing. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 12(5), 1–11. CrossRef
von Wehrden, H., Wesche, K., Chuluunkhuyag, O., & Fust, P. (2014). Correlation of trends in cashmere production and declines of large wild mammals: Response to Berger et al. 2013. Conversation Biology, 29(1), 286–289.
Waldron, S., Brown, C., & Komarek, A. M. (2014). The Chinese cashmere industry: A global value chain analysis. Development Policy Review, 32(5), 589–610. CrossRef
Wang, H. W., & Wu, M. C. (2012). Business type, industry value chain, and R&D performance: Evidence from high-tech firms in an emerging market. Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 79(2), 326–340. CrossRef
Wang, X., Chang, L., & McGregor, B. (2006). Hairiness of worsted wool and cashmere yarns and the impact of fiber curvature on hairiness. Textile Research Journal, 76(4), 281–287. CrossRef
Wani, S. A., Sofi, A. H., Shakyawar, D. B., Yaqoob, I., Matto, F. A., & Malik, A. H. (2013). Fabrication of innovative charkha for pashmina spinning and its impact assessment. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 104, 1141–1144. CrossRef
Wani, S. A., Wani, M. H., & Yusuf, S. (2009). Economics of Pashmina based trans-humane production system in cold arid region of Jammu and Kashmir. Indian Journal of Agricultural Economics, 64(2), 229–245.
Wiengarten, F., Lo, C. K. Y., & Lam, J. Y. K. (2017). How does sustainability leadership affect firm performance? The choices associated with appointing a chief officer of corporate social responsibility. Journal of Business Ethics, 140(3), 477–493. CrossRef
Yaqoob, I., Sofi, A. H., Wani, S. A., Sheikh, F. D., & Bumla, N. A. (2012). Pashmina shawl–A traditional way of making in Kashmir. Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge, 11(2), 329–333.
Zhang, W., Wang, R., Kleemann, D. O., Gao, M., Xu, J., & Jia, Z. (2009). Effects of dietary copper on growth performance, nutrient digestibility and fibre characteristics in cashmere goats during the cashmere slow-growing period. Small Ruminant Research, 85, 58–62. CrossRef
Zutshi, C. (2009). “Designed for eternity”: Kashmiri shawls, empire, and cultures of production and consumption in Mid-Victorian Britain. Journal of British Studies, 48(2), 420–440. CrossRef
- Cashmere Industry: Value Chains and Sustainability
Sheikh I. Ishrat
Nigel P. Grigg
- Springer Singapore
- Chapter 7
Neuer Inhalt/© Stellmach, Neuer Inhalt/© Maturus, Pluta Logo/© Pluta