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Published in:
2021 | OriginalPaper | Chapter
Recontextualising and Appropriating Second-Hand Western Fashion Items in Non-Western Contexts
Authors : Anika Kozlowski, Daphne Mohajer va Pesaran
Published in: State-of-the-Art Upcycling Research and Practice
Publisher: Springer International Publishing
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Abstract
A ‘death’ in the West, and an ‘afterlife’ offshore. What happens to the garments produced for and consumed by Western consumers when their initial lifecycle of use is deemed exhausted, and they are exported offshore? This chapter traces the condition that structures emergent fashion practices in non-Western nations generated by the global export of used Western garments. It looks at the ways that the trade of second-hand clothing (SHC) creates openings for designers and wearers to material alteration or the shifting of cultural categories such as symbolism, value, function or aesthetics. This chapter takes a global approach to the investigation into disused Western apparel and explores the multiplicity of meanings, uses and values that can be attributed to fashion items outside of their prescribed/designed use or application. To explore these new contexts of SHC, the authors discuss how value is attributed and altered as SHC moves along the value chain from the West to non-Western regions.