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2020 | OriginalPaper | Chapter

4. The Transformation of the Textile and Apparel Sector After NAFTA

Author : Raúl Vázquez-López

Published in: NAFTA and the Mexican Manufacturing Sector

Publisher: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

Based on the preparation of a database that estimates production output numbers, working hours, and their ratio for 5 branches and 27 categories of economic activity, this chapter analyses the evolution of the textile industry in Mexico in the 1994–2008 period, placing particular emphasis on the effects that the insertion of its main activities in global value chains has had on the sector’s structure. The shift-share type methodology reveals that the incipient process of upgrading following the signing of the NAFTA has had mixed results and was not based on a generalized technological transformation. At the same time, the use of the ECLAC’s Competitive Analysis of Nation’s (CAN) methodology for the top twenty export products in 2008 showed a sharp loss of competitiveness of the sector in the 2001–2008 period. The main finding was, therefore, to document the evolution of the global insertion of the Mexican textile and apparel industry from a panorama based on assembly-line style production with low value added to de-industrialization passing through a process of interrupted upgrading.

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Appendix
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Footnotes
1
Established by the World Trade Organization (WTO). Designed to replace the Multi-Fibre Agreement (1974-1994), it was in effect from 1995 to 2004 and as such was considered to be part of the transition period toward the full liberalization of the sector.
 
2
Kaplinsky (2000, p. 124) defines the concept of global value chains as the “full range of activities that are required to bring a product (or a service) from conception through the different phases of production to delivery to final consumers and disposal after use.”
 
3
Estimates show that the percentage share represented by this category of activity in production value and working hours in the sector from 1994 to 2008 increased from 10.10% to 25.83% and from 2.64% to 6.97%, respectively.
 
4
Own estimate based on data from the Monthly Industrial Survey (EIM) of the National Statistics and Geography Institute (INEGI) under the Mexican Classification of Activities and Products (CMAP).
 
5
“Rising star” means that the share of the product imports in question increased in the United States market and that the country in question gained a larger share of total imports of the product in the United States market. “Waning star” means that the share of the product imports in question decreased in the United States market, and that the country in question gained a larger share of the total imports of that product in the United States. “Lost opportunity” means that the share of the product imports in question grew in the United States market but the country in question accounted for a smaller share of total imports of that product in the United States. “Withdrawn” means that the share of the product imports in question decreased in the United States market and that the country in question obtained a smaller share of total imports of that product in the United States market (Cordero, 2010, p. 26). The exercise was based on the world market instead of being restricted to the United States, and the comparison of export values was made for 1994 and 2008.
 
6
Because there are no data for the years prior to 2008 in the source of information due to changes in the HS classifications, category 611595 (Other goods such as stockings, pantyhose, leotards, tights, socks and other hosiery products, including progressive compression, knitted or crocheted, or cotton goods) was not included.
 
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Metadata
Title
The Transformation of the Textile and Apparel Sector After NAFTA
Author
Raúl Vázquez-López
Copyright Year
2020
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-55265-7_4