Models for predicting the transport of sediment along straight coastlines in general use in the mid-1970’s were derived empirically from sparse measurement of both the forcing function (waves and currents) and the response function (sediment motions). In addition to the unsatisfactory nature of the basic measurements upon which they were based, the models were deficient because they failed to employ such potentially significant factors as wind stress, sediment size, bottom slope and spatial variations in waves and currents, including the effects of rip currents.
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David B. Duane
Richard J. Seymour
Arthur G. Alexiou
- Springer US