Surface gravity waves have always caused great interest, as they are an example of a well-known, but still very complicated phenomenon. They can easily be observed, but it is rather difficult to describe them mathematically. Sir Horace Lamb noted in his letter to the London Mathematical Society in 1904 that waves were almost the first hydrodynamic problem studied systematically on the basis of general equations. It gave an example of activity that provided efficient evidence of new and unusual analytical methods. Wave observations on the sea surface and their connection with wind have been performed from time immemorial. It was quite natural that the pioneers of theoretical hydrodynamics (J. Lagrange, G. Eiry, G. Stokes and J. Rayleigh) tried to find an explanation of the elementary properties of surface waves using the assumption of ideal fluid motion.
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Professor Dr. Igor V. Lavrenov
- Springer Berlin Heidelberg