Skip to main content
SpringerLink
Log in

Alongshore variation in the rip current hazard at Pensacola Beach, Florida

  • Original Paper
  • Published:
Natural Hazards Aims and scope Submit manuscript

Abstract

Many drowning and near drownings at Pensacola Beach, Florida are attributed to rip currents, the strong seaward-flowing currents that extend from the shoreline to the line of breakers and sometimes beyond. While surf forecasts assume that the rip hazard is uniform alongshore and that the (erosion) rips are ephemeral features, evidence is presented to suggest that the rip hazard at Pensacola Beach is not uniform alongshore. Rather the rip current “hotspots” develop as a consequence of an alongshore variation in the surf similarity parameter and nearshore state on the order of ~1,450 m. The variation is forced by transverse ridges on the inner shelf that force wave refraction and focusing at the ridge crests. This creates a more dissipative, rhythmic bar and beach morphology at the ridges and rougher surf. Between ridges, where wave heights and periods are smaller and the outermost bar is forced closer to the shoreline, the nearshore is in a (more reflective) bar and rip state during red flag conditions. Drownings between 2000 and 2009 are shown to be clustered between transverse ridges and in the years following a hurricane or tropical storm (2000–2003 and 2005–2008) when the bar and rip morphology first develops as the shore face recovers. This continues until the innermost bar attaches to the beach face unless the bar system is reset by another tropical storm or hurricane. It is argued that the rip hazard is dependent on the alongshore covariation of the environmental forcing with the individual and group behavior in both time and space, even on what appears to be a relatively uniform beach environment.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this article

Log in via an institution

Price excludes VAT (USA)
Tax calculation will be finalised during checkout.

Instant access to the full article PDF.

Institutional subscriptions

Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  • Aagaard T, Greenwood B, Nielsen J (1997) Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel. Mar Geol 140:25–45

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Aubrey DG (1979) Seasonal patterns of onshore/offshore sediment movement. J Geophys Res 84:6347–6354

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Balsillie JH (1975) Analysis and interpretation of LEO and pro-file data along the Western Panhandle coast of Florida. CERC Tech Memo 49:72p

    Google Scholar 

  • Bowman D, Arad D, Rosen DS, Kit E, Goldbery R, Slavicz A (1988a) Flow characteristics along the rip current system under low-energy conditions. Mar Geol 82:149–167

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Bowman D, Rosen DS, Kit E, Arad D, Slavicz A (1988b) Flow characteristics at the rip current neck under low energy conditions. Mar Geol 79:41–54

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Brander RW (1999) Field observations on the morphodynamic evolution of a low-energy rip current system. Mar Geol 157:199–217

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Brander RW, Short AD (2000) Morphodynamics of a large-scale rip current system at Muriwai Beach, New Zealand. Mar Geol 165:27–39

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Brander RW, Short AD (2001) Flow kinematics of low-energy rip current systems. J Coastal Res 17:468–481

    Google Scholar 

  • Browder AE (2001) Bathymetrically-induced erosional hot spots: Pensacola Beach, L. Report prepared by Olsen Associates, Inc., Jacksonville, FL, for Santa Rosa Island Authority

  • Browder AE, Reilly WL (2008) Observations of large-scale beach cusps in the Florida Panhandle and Alabama. Annual National Conference on Beach Preservation Technology, pp 1–16

  • Coco G, Bryan MO, Green BG, Ruessink IL, Turner I, van Enckevort I (2005) Video observations of shoreline and sandbar coupled dynamics. Proceedings of coasts and ports 2005, Adelaide, pp 471–476

  • Dalrymple RA, Lozano CJ (1978) Wave-current interaction models for rip currents. J Geophys Res 83:6063–6072

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Deigaard R, Drønen N, Fredsøe J, Jensen JH, Jørgensen MP (1999) A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast. Coastal Eng 36:171–195

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Drønen N, Karunarathna H, Fredsøe J, Mutlu Sumer B, Deigaard R (2002) An experimental study of rip channel flow. Coastal Eng 45:223–238

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Falques A, Montoto A, Vila D (1999) A note on hydrodynamic instabilities and horizontal circulation in the surf zone. J Geophys Res 104(20):615

    Google Scholar 

  • Fletemeyer J, Leatherman S (2010) Rip currents and beach safety education. J Coastal Res 26:1–3

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Fredsoe J, Deigaard R (1992) Mechanics of coastal sediment transport. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering, 367 pp

  • Gensini V, Ashley W (2009) An examination of rip current fatalities in the United States. Nat Hazards 54:159–175

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Guza RT, Inman DL (1975) Edge waves and beach cusps. J Geophys Res 80:2997–3012

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Haller MC, Dalrymple RA, Svendsen IA (2002) Experimental study of nearshore dynamics on a barred beach with rip channels. J Geophys Res C: Oceans 107: 14-1-14-21

  • Hino M (1974) Theory on formation of rip-current and cuspidal coast. Coastal Eng Japan 17:23–37

    Google Scholar 

  • Holman RA, Symonds G, Thornton EB, Ranasinghe R (2006) Rip spacing and persistence on an embayed beach. J Geophys Res C: Oceans 111

  • Houser C, Greenwood B (2007) Onshore migration of a swash bar during a storm. J Coastal Res 23:1–14

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Houser C, Hamilton S (2009) Sensitivity of post-hurricance beach and dune recovery to event frequency. Earth Surf Proc Land 34:613–628

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Houser C, Hapke C, Hamilton S (2008) Controls on coastal dune morphology, shoreline erosion and barrier island response to extreme storms. Geomorphology 100:223–240

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Houser C, Caldwell N, Meyer-Arendt K (2010) Hot times at hot spots: the rip current hazard at Pensacola Beach, Florida. In: Leatherman S, Fletemeyer J (eds) Rip currents: beach safety, physical oceanography and wave modeling. CRC Press

  • Hyne NJ, Goodell HG (1967) Origin of the sediments and submarine geomorphology of the inner continental shelf off Choctawhatchee bay, Florida. Mar Geol 5:299–313

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Kwon HJ (1969) Barrier islands of the northern Gulf of Mexico coast: sediment source and development, coastal studies series 25, Louisiana State University Press, Baton Rouge

  • Lascody LL (1998) East central Florida rip current program. Nat Weather Dig 22(2):25–30

    Google Scholar 

  • Livingston G, Arthur K (2002) The economic impact of Pensacola Beach. Unpublished report by the Haas Center for Business Research and Economic Development, University of West Florida. 49 pp

  • Lushine JB (1991) A study of rip current drownings and weather related factors. Nat Weather Dig 16:13–19

    Google Scholar 

  • MacMahan JH, Thornton EB, Stanton TP, Reniers AJHM (2005) RIPEX: observations of a rip current system. Mar Geol 218:113–134

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Meyer-Arendt KJ (1990) Recreational business districts in Gulf of Mexico seaside resorts. J Cult Geogr 11:39–55

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Mollere GJ, Watson AI, Goree RC (2001) A rip current assessment of the Florida Panhandle coastal waters. National Weather Service SR-210

  • Morgan D, Ozanne-Smith J, Triggs T (2009)  Self-reported water and drowning risk exposure at surf beaches. Risk Prevention 33:180–188

    Google Scholar 

  • Nielsen-Gammon JW (2001) The tropical sea Breeze. Ninth conference on mesoscale processes, pp 4

  • Ranasinghe R, Symonds G, Black K, Holman R (2000) Processes governing rip spacing, persistence, and strength in a swell dominated, microtidal environment. In: Coastal engineering 2000–proceedings of the 27th international conference on coastal engineering, ICCE, 454–467

  • Reniers AJHM, Roelvink JA, Thornton EB (2004) Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing. J Geophys Res C: Oceans 109: C01030 1–22

    Google Scholar 

  • Ruessink BG, Coco G, Ranasinghe R, Turner IL (2006) A cross-wavelet study of alongshore nonuniform nearshore sandbar behavior. In: IEEE international conference on neural networks–conference proceedings, pp 4310–4317

  • Shand RD (2003) Relationships between episodes of bar switching, cross-shore bar migration and outer bar degeneration at Wanganui, New Zealand. J Coastal Res 19(1):157–170

    Google Scholar 

  • Shepard FP, Emery KO, LaFond EC (1941) Rip currents: a process of geological importance. J Geol 49:337–369

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Sherman DJ, Short AD, Takeda I (1993) Sediment mixing depth and bedform migration in rip channels. J Coastal Res 15:39–48

    Google Scholar 

  • Short AD (1985) Rip-current type, spacing and persistence, Narrabeen Beach, Australia. Mar Geol 65:47–71

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Short AD, Trembanis AC (2004) Decadal scale patterns in beach oscillation and rotation Narrabeen beach, Australia–Time series, PCA and wavelet analysis. J Coastal Res 20:523–532

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Smith JA, Largier JL (1995) Observations of nearshore circulation: rip currents. J Geophys Res 100:10,967–10,975

    Google Scholar 

  • Sonu CJ (1972) Field observations of nearshore circulation and meandering currents. J Geophys Res 77:3232–3247

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Stone GW (1984) Mathematical modeling of the nearshore and implications for coastal management, Northwest Florida. Unpublished MSc thesis, Department of Environmental Studies, University of West Florida, 140 pp

  • Stone GW (1991) Differential sediment supply and cellular nature of longshore sediment transport along coastal Northwest Florida and Southeast Alabama since the late Holocene. PhD Dissertation, University of Maryland, College Park

  • Stone GW, Stapor FW Jr (1996) A nearshore sediment transport model for the northeast Gulf of Mexico Coast USA. J Coastal Res 12:786–792

    Google Scholar 

  • Stone GW, Stapor FW Jr, May JP, Morgan JP (1992) Multiple sediment sources and a cellular, non-integrated, longshore drift system: Northwest Florida and southeast Alabama coast, USA. Mar Geol 105:141–154

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Torrence C, Compo GP (1998) A practical guide to wavelet analysis. Bull Am Meteorol Soc 79:61–78

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Turner IL, Whyte D, Ruessink BG, Ranasinghe R (2007) Observations of rip spacing, persistence and mobility at a long, straight coastline. Mar Geol 236:209–221

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wright LD, Short AD (1984) Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Mar Geol 56:93–118

    Article  Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgments

This study was supported in part by grants from the National Park Service (P5320060026) and Florida Sea Grant (R/C–S-50). Field assistance was provided by Tim Brunk and Jack Walker from Texas A&M, and by Tanya Gallagher, Fritz Langerfeld and Klaus Meyer-Arendt from the University of West Florida. Bob West of the Santa Rosa Island Authority is also thanked for his support and contributions to this study.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

  1. Department of Geography, Texas A&M University, 810 O&M Building, College Station, TX, USA

    Chris Houser, Gemma Barrett & Daniel Labude

Authors
  1. Chris Houser
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  2. Gemma Barrett
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

  3. Daniel Labude
    View author publications

    You can also search for this author in PubMed Google Scholar

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Chris Houser.

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Cite this article

Houser, C., Barrett, G. & Labude, D. Alongshore variation in the rip current hazard at Pensacola Beach, Florida. Nat Hazards 57, 501–523 (2011). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-010-9636-0

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069-010-9636-0

Keywords

Search

Navigation