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An operator expansion formalism for nonlinear surface waves over variable depth

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  25 May 1998

RALPH A. SMITH
Affiliation:
Areté Associates, Sherman Oaks, CA 91413-6024, USA

Abstract

The Hamiltonian formalism for surface waves associated with the method of Watson & West (1975) is extended to handle the case of spatially varying bottom depth. This description models moderately nonlinear waves over a wider range of scales than Boussinesq-type approximations. A pseudospectral simulation code has been developed using this formalism in two horizontal dimensions. Computations using the model compare well with measurements of waves over a bar, diffractive focusing by topography, and shoaling of solitary waves. Waveforms are computed accurately until near the point of breaking.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1998 Cambridge University Press

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