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UVA filters in sun-protection products: regulatory and biological aspects

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Abstract

This review of published in vitro and in vivo studies concerning the biological effects of ultraviolet A (UVA; 320–400 nm) radiation illustrates the evidence for combining UVA and UVB filters in sun-protection products. These data have led to the development of new sunscreens as well as methods to evaluate their efficacy. After listing the UVA filters available and briefly noting the requirements for a high SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen, the methods for evaluating the level of UVA protection will be described. This article also summarizes several studies looking at the prevention of erythema, pigmentation, DNA damage, photoimmunosuppression, photoaging and photodermatoses. These data demonstrate in vitro and in vivo that only well-balanced UVA-UVB sunscreens, absorbing over the entire UV spectrum are able to prevent or significantly reduce the associated biological damage.

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Abbreviations

BEMT:

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazin

BMDM:

Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane

DHHB:

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate

DPDT:

Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate

DTS:

Drometrizole trisiloxane

ES:

Ethylhexyl salicylate

ET:

Ethylhexyl triazon

MBBT:

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol

4-MBC:

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor

OC:

Octocrylene

OMC:

Octyl methoxycinnamate

OS:

Octyl salicylate

TDSA:

Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid

TiO2:

Titanium dioxide

ZnO:

Zinc oxide

ROS:

Reactive oxygen species

SPF:

Sun protection factor

UVA-PF:

UVA protection factor

OTC:

Over-the-counter

NDA:

New drug application

TEA:

Time and extent application

UVR:

UV radiation

SSR:

Solar simulated radiation

EC:

European Commission

FDA:

Food and Drug Administration

PPD:

Persistent pigment darkening

ISO:

International Standardisation Organisation

COLIPA:

European Cosmetic Industry Association

UV-DL:

UV daylight

MED:

Minimal erythema doses

MPDu:

Unprotected minimal pigmentation dose

MPDp:

Protected minimal pigmentation dose

PPF:

Pigmentation protection factor

Fb:

Fibroblasts

Kc:

Keratinocytes

CHS:

Contact hypersensitivity

DTH:

Delayed type hypersensitivity

PMLE:

Polymorphic light eruption

LE:

Lupus erythematosus

INCI:

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. L’Oréal Research & Innovation, Asnières, France

    A. Fourtanier & D. Moyala

  2. La Roche-Posay Pharmaceutical Laboratories, 110 Avenue Henri Barbusse, 92602, Asnières Cedex, France

    S. Seite

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  1. A. Fourtanier
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  2. D. Moyala
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  3. S. Seite
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Corresponding author

Correspondence to S. Seite.

Additional information

Contribution to the themed issue on the biology of UVA.

Funding: SS, DM and AF are employees of L’Oréal, France. Conflict of interest statement: All authors are employees of L’Oréal

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Fourtanier, A., Moyala, D. & Seite, S. UVA filters in sun-protection products: regulatory and biological aspects. Photochem Photobiol Sci 11, 81–89 (2012). https://doi.org/10.1039/c1pp05152k

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