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Run-up of long waves on a beach: The influence of the incident wave form

  • Marine Physics
  • Published:
Oceanology Aims and scope

Abstract

The influence of the incident wave form on the extreme (maximal) characteristics of a wave at a beach (run-up and draw-down heights, run-up and draw-down velocities, and the breaking parameter) is studied. It is suggested to use in the calculations the definition of wavelength at a level of 2/3 of the maximal height, which to a certain degree correlates with the definition of the significant wavelength accepted in oceanology. Such a definition allows us to unify the relations for extreme run-up characteristics so that the influence of the incident wave form becomes insignificant. The obtained universal relations can be used for the estimates of run-up characteristics when the exact information about the form of the incident wave is not available.

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Authors and Affiliations

  1. Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia

    I. I. Didenkulova & E. N. Pelinovsky

  2. Department of Applied Mathematics, Nizhnii Novgorod State Technical University, Nizhnii Novgorod, Russia

    I. I. Didenkulova & E. N. Pelinovsky

Authors
  1. I. I. Didenkulova
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  2. E. N. Pelinovsky
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Correspondence to I. I. Didenkulova.

Additional information

Original Russian Text © I.I. Didenkulova, E.N. Pelinovsky, 2008, published in Okeanologiya, 2008, Vol. 48, No. 1, pp. 5–10.

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Didenkulova, I.I., Pelinovsky, E.N. Run-up of long waves on a beach: The influence of the incident wave form. Oceanology 48, 1–6 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437008010013

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  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437008010013

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