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Erschienen in:
Rogue Waves in Higher Order Nonlinear Schrödinger Models Kapitel lesen Erstes Kapitel lesen

2016 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

Runup of Long Irregular Waves on Plane Beach

verfasst von : Ira Didenkulova, Efim Pelinovsky, Anna Sergeeva

Erschienen in: Extreme Ocean Waves

Verlag: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

Runup of irregular waves, modeled as superposition of Furrier harmonics with random phases, is studied in frames of nonlinear shallow water theory. The possibility of appearance of freak waves on a beach is analyzed. The distribution functions of runup characteristics are computed. An incident wave represents an irregular sea state with Gaussian spectrum. The asymptotic of probability functions in the range of large amplitudes for estimation of freak wave formation in the shore is studied. It is shown that the average runup height of waves with wide spectrum is higher than of waves with narrow spectrum.

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Vorheriges Kapitel Extremes and Decadal Variations in the Baltic Sea Wave Conditions
Nächstes Kapitel Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach
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Metadaten
Titel
Runup of Long Irregular Waves on Plane Beach
verfasst von
Ira Didenkulova
Efim Pelinovsky
Anna Sergeeva
Copyright-Jahr
2016
Buch
Extreme Ocean Waves

Print ISBN: 978-3-319-21574-7

Electronic ISBN: 978-3-319-21575-4

Copyright-Jahr: 2016

DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-21575-4_8