nach oben

Erschienen in:

2018 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

2. Sufficient Desire: The Discourse of Sustainable Luxury

verfasst von : Katie Baker Jones, Joseph P. Jones

Erschienen in: Sustainability in Luxury Fashion Business

Verlag: Springer Singapore

Einloggen

Aktivieren Sie unsere intelligente Suche, um passende Fachinhalte oder Patente zu finden.

search-config

KI-gestützte Suche

Aus

Abstract

Luxury and sustainable fashion goods are like any consumer product; they are material culture, laden with meaning beyond their utility. The value of a fashion good—whether luxurious, sustainable, or both—is largely symbolic rather than economic (Crane & Bovone in Poetics 34:319–333, 2006), though the economic value allows for a greater distinction between levels of goods. Consumers utilize these embedded values to make their personal values visible to themselves and others. Utilizing discourse analysis, we offer here an explication of the separate yet interlacing domains of ‘luxury’ and ‘sustainability.’ This is an attempt to locate, if only briefly, the shifting domains of these oft-employed concepts. Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher, and Brunello Cucinelli served as case studies for this analysis due to their general ascension as preeminent sustainable luxury fashion brands. Central to this success has been their ability to use discursive practices that effectively communicate their company ethos. Whether that ethos is then connected to their product is questionable and will be explored here.

Sie haben noch keine Lizenz? Dann Informieren Sie sich jetzt über unsere Produkte:

Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik"

Online-Abonnement

Mit Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik" erhalten Sie Zugriff auf:

über 102.000 Bücher
über 537 Zeitschriften

aus folgenden Fachgebieten:

Automobil + Motoren
Bauwesen + Immobilien
Business IT + Informatik
Elektrotechnik + Elektronik
Energie + Nachhaltigkeit
Finance + Banking
Management + Führung
Marketing + Vertrieb
Maschinenbau + Werkstoffe
Versicherung + Risiko

Jetzt Wissensvorsprung sichern!

Jetzt informieren

Springer Professional "Technik"

Online-Abonnement

Mit Springer Professional "Technik" erhalten Sie Zugriff auf:

über 67.000 Bücher
über 390 Zeitschriften

aus folgenden Fachgebieten:

Automobil + Motoren
Bauwesen + Immobilien
Business IT + Informatik
Elektrotechnik + Elektronik
Energie + Nachhaltigkeit
Maschinenbau + Werkstoffe

Jetzt Wissensvorsprung sichern!

Jetzt informieren

Springer Professional "Wirtschaft"

Online-Abonnement

Mit Springer Professional "Wirtschaft" erhalten Sie Zugriff auf:

über 67.000 Bücher
über 340 Zeitschriften

aus folgenden Fachgebieten:

Bauwesen + Immobilien
Business IT + Informatik
Finance + Banking
Management + Führung
Marketing + Vertrieb
Versicherung + Risiko

Jetzt Wissensvorsprung sichern!

Jetzt informieren

Vorheriges Kapitel Opening: Sustainability and Luxury Brands

Nächstes Kapitel The Marketing of Sustainability and CSR Initiatives by Luxury Brands: Cultural Indicators, Call to Action, and Framework

Abnett, K. (2016). Kering goes public with sustainability report, revealing progress and pain points. Business of Fashion. Retrieved May 3, 2015 from https://goo.gl/gBextQ.

Bagwell, L. S., & Berhheim, B. D. (1996). Veblen effects in a theory of conspicuous consumption. The American Economic Review, 86(3): 349–373. Retrieved from https://goo.gl/2cyBY7.

Berry, C. J. (1994). The idea of luxury: A conceptual and historical investigation. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.CrossRef

Bocken, N. M. P., & Short, S. W. (2016). Towards a sufficiency-driven business model: Experiences and opportunities. Environmental Innovation and Societal Transitions, 18, 41–61. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.eist.2015.07.010.CrossRef

Bourdieu, P. (1986). The forms of capital. In J. Richardson (Ed.), Handbook of theory and research for the sociology of education (pp. 15–29). Westport, CT: Greenwood.

Chaffee, S. H. (1991). Explication. London: Sage Publications.

Cherny-Scanlon, X. (2016). Putting glam into green: A case for sustainable luxury fashion. In S. Dhiman & J. Marques (Eds.), Spirituality and sustainability (pp. 183–197). Switzerland: Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-34235-1_12.

Clark, H. (2008). Slow + Fashion—An Oxymoron—Or a promise for a future…? Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body, & Culture, 12(4): 427–446. https://doi.org/10.2752/175174108x346922.CrossRef

Cochrane, L. (2015). Fashion world fears designer burnout as pressure takes its toll. The Guardian. Retrieved November 1, 2015 from https://goo.gl/jsPhTj.

Cooper, T. (2005). Slower consumption: Reflections on product life spans and the “throwaway society”. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 9(1–2), 51–67. https://doi.org/10.1162/1088198054084671.CrossRef

Crane, D., & Bovone, L. (2006). Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing. Poetics, 34, 319–333. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.poetic.2006.10.002.CrossRef

Curwen, L., Park, J., & Sarkar, A. K. (2012). Challenges and solutions of sustainable apparel product development: A case study of Eileen Fisher. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 31(1), 32–47.CrossRef

de Graaf, J., Wann, D., & Naylor, T. H. (2014). Affluenza: how overconsumption is killing us—And how to fight back (3rd ed.). San Francisco: Berrett-Koehler Publishers Inc.

Dobers, P., & Springett, D. (2010). Corporate social responsibility: Discourse, narratives and communication. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management, 17, 63–69. https://doi.org/10.1002/csr.231.CrossRef

Dybicz, P. (2004). Ethical consumption within critical social policy. Journal of Progressive Human Services, 15(2), 25–43.

Fairclough, N. (2001). The discourse of new labour: Critical discourse analysis. In M. Wetherell, S. Taylor, & S. J. Yates (Eds.), Discourse as data: A guide for analysis (pp. 229–266). London: Sage Publications Ltd.

Fashion Revolution CIC. (2017). Fashion transparency index: A review of 100 of the biggest global fashion brands and retailers ranked according to how much they disclose about their social and environmental policies, practices and impact. Retrieved from https://goo.gl/iNbDGW.

Foucault, M. (1970). The order of things: An archaeology of the human sciences. New York: Random House.

Freeman, E. R., Martin, K., & Parmar, B. (2007). Stakeholder captialism. Journal of Business Ethics, 74, 303–314. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-007-9517-y.CrossRef

Godey, B., Pederzoli, D., Aiello, G., et al. (2012). Brand and country-of-origin effect on consumers’ decision to purchase luxury products. Journal of Business Research, 65(10), 1461–1470. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2011.10.012.CrossRef

Heiderstadt, D. (2015) Fashion agenda: The goodbye game. WWD, 210(25): 8–10, 12, 14.

Hodges, A. (2015). Intertextuality in discourse. In D. Tannen, H. E. Hamilton, & D. Schiffrin (Eds.), The handbook of discourse analysis (pp. 42–60). Malden, MA: Wiley.

Horyn, C. (2012). What drives Stella McCartney. The New York Times Magazine. Retrieved February 22, 2012 from https://goo.gl/AnF6jn.

Jones, K. B. (2015). ‘When one Dior closes’: The discourse of designer changeovers at historic fashion houses. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture, 2(3), 321–331. https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc.2.3.321_1.CrossRef

Jones, K. B., & Hawley, J. M. (2017). “Chic but scrupulous, down to the very last stitch”: “Style Ethics” in American Vogue. Fashion Practice, 9(2), 280–302.CrossRef

Jorgensen, M., & Phillips, L. J. (2002). Discourse analysis as theory and method. London: Sage Publications.CrossRef

Kapferer, J.-N., & Michaut, A. (2015). Luxury and sustainability: A common future? The match depends on how consumers define luxury. Luxury Research J, 1(1), 3–17.CrossRef

Kawamura, Y. (2005). Fashion-Ology: An introduction to fashion studies. Oxford: Berg.

König, A. (2006). Glossy words: An analysis of fashion writing in British Vogue. Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 10(1/2), 205–224.CrossRef

Laclau, E. (2006). Ideology and post-Marxism. Journal of Political Ideologies, 11(2), 103–114. https://doi.org/10.1080/13569310600687882.CrossRef

Lemons, J. F. (2015). Flat management. SAGE Business Researcher. Retrieved February 2, 2015 from https://goo.gl/MkFvLZ.

Lockwood, L. (2016). Special report: Instant fashion salvation or gimmick? WWD, 211(40), 8–11.

Luxury. (2010). In Stevenson, A., & Lindberg, C.(Eds.), New Oxford American Dictionary. Retrieved from http://www.oxfordreference.com/view/10.1093/acref/ 9780195392883.001.0001/m_en_us1264907.

Lyon, T. P., & Maxwell, J. W. (2011). Greenwash: Corporate environmental disclosure under threat of audit. Journal of Economics and Management Strategy, 20(1), 3–41. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1530-9134.2010.00282.x.CrossRef

Macdonell, D. (1986). Theories of discourse: An introduction. Oxford: B. Blackwell.

Machin, D., & Mayr, A. (2012). How to do critical discourse analysis: A multimodal introduction. London: Sage.

Malcolm, J. (2013). Nobody’s looking at you: Eileen fisher and the art of understatement. The New Yorker. 52–63.

Mead, R. (2010). The prince of Solomeo: The cashmere utopia of Brunello Cucinelli. The New Yorker, 72–79. Retrieved March 29, 2010 from https://goo.gl/a1J1sE.

Princen, T. (2005). The logic of sufficiency. Cambridge, MA: The MIT Press.

Rose, G. (2001). Visual methodologies: An introduction to the interpretation of visual materials. Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage.

Silverstein, M. J., Fiske, N., & Butman, J. (2003). Trading up: The new American luxury. New York: Portfolio.

Solca, L. (2017). Is Hermès drifting? Business of Fashion. Retrieved February 14, 2017 from https://goo.gl/tLRXjf.

Sullivan, A. (2016). Karl marx: Fashion and capitalism. In A. Rocamora & A. Smelik (Eds.), Thinking through fashion: A guide to key theorists (pp. 28–45). London: I.B. Tauris.

Thomas, D. (2007). Deluxe: How luxury lost its luster. New York: Penguin Press.

van Dijk, T. A. (2011). Discourse and ideology. In T. A. van Dijk (Ed.), Discourse studies: A multidisciplinary introduction (pp. 379–407). London: Sage Publications.CrossRef

Veblen, T. (2004). Conspicuous consumption. In D. Purdy (Ed.), The rise of fashion: A reader. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.

Walker, S. (2010). Temporal objects—Design, change and sustainability. Sustainability, 2, 812–832.CrossRef

Williams, C. C., & Millington, A. C. (2004). The diverse and contested meanings of sustainable development. The Geographical Journal, 170(2), 99–104. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0016-7398.2004.00111.x.CrossRef

World Commission on Environmental Development (WCED). (1987). Our common future. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

Titel: Sufficient Desire: The Discourse of Sustainable Luxury
verfasst von: Katie Baker Jones
Joseph P. Jones
Verlag: Springer Singapore
Buch: Sustainability in Luxury Fashion Business
Print ISBN: 978-981-10-8877-3

Electronic ISBN: 978-981-10-8878-0

Copyright-Jahr: 2018
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-10-8878-0_2

Springer Professional

Abstract

Bitte loggen Sie sich ein, um Zugang zu Ihrer Lizenz zu erhalten.

Sie haben noch keine Lizenz? Dann Informieren Sie sich jetzt über unsere Produkte:

Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik"

Springer Professional "Technik"

Springer Professional "Wirtschaft"