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2021 | Book

Linear and Nonlinear Surface Waves Read chapter Read first chapter

Advanced Studies in Ocean Physics

Authors: Prof. Anatoly Kistovich, Prof. Konstantin Pokazeev, Prof. Tatiana Chaplina

Publisher: Springer International Publishing

Book Series : Springer Oceanography

Part of: Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik" , Springer Professional "Technik"

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About this book

This book describes a comprehensive selection of ocean processes such as wave phenomena (surface, internal gravitational, and acoustic waves), the influence of surfactants and pollutants on the aquatic environment's dynamics, the models of the stratified natural environment, convective phenomena in the ocean, and the interaction of wave and convective processes. Finally, this book dedicates the last section to unsolved problems in the physics of anomalous waves.

Most of the chapters present the most hegemonic theories but also they introduce the revulsive ideas based on alternative approaches. The underlying mathematical models are scientifically justified both at the physical and formal mathematical levels. In all known limiting cases lead to well-known classical results. They are in good agreement with experimental data.

Several sections show the application of developed approaches to the description of natural phenomena. The book is of interest to specialists working in the field of ocean physics, as well as undergraduate and graduate students specializing in marine physics and oceanography.

Table of Contents

Frontmatter
Chapter 1. Linear and Nonlinear Surface Waves
Abstract
This Chapter is devoted to the problem of describing waves observed on the surface of liquid media (in the vast majority of cases—on the surface of water), located in an external gravitational field. Let’s define the issues that will be discussed here.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 2. Applications of the Surface Wave’s Theory to Description of Some Natural Phenomena
Abstract
This chapter discusses some applications of the theory of surface waves developed in the previous Chap. 1 in relation to observed natural phenomena.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 3. Surface Contamination
Abstract
Currently, almost 20% of the World ocean area is covered with organic films of anthropogenic and biogenic origin. Among the substances of anthropogenic origin, in addition to petroleum products, ssynthetic surfactants (surfactants) are found in coastal waters.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 4. Stratification of the Ocean Environment
Abstract
One of the most important characteristics of an inhomogeneous medium is the stable stratification of its density in the Earth's gravity field in the absence of introduced disturbances. Knowledge of the initial stable stratification is necessary for correct interpretation of measurement data in field and laboratory conditions.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 5. Internal Gravity Waves in a Stratified Medium
Abstract
Let us now turn to movements in the sea column, when surface phenomena play a negligible role. As noted in the initial sections, the density of seawater in the local vicinity of a certain observation point is a function of temperature, pressure, and concentration of impurities at that point. In General, the listed thermodynamic characteristics change in space, which entails a change in density from point to point. In a gravitational field, an inhomogeneous density distribution can be in stable equilibrium only if the gradients of the gravitational potential and density are oppositely directed. In other words, equilibrium occurs if the isopycns (levels of constant density) coincide with the levels of the gravitational potential, and the density decreases with increasing potential.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 6. Convective Phenomena in the Sea
Abstract
So far, we have studied processes that, despite differences in their physical origin, can be attributed to a single class—the class of wave phenomena. But there are other movements in the marine environment that cannot be included in the class mentioned. One of these movements is the transfer of heat in a liquid. As is known, the generally accepted characteristic of the thermal state of the medium is its temperature.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 7. Interaction of Surface Waves With Regions of Near-surface Convection
Abstract
Despite the fact that the study of the dynamics of short waves, the length of which is substantially less than the thickness of the fluid layer on the surface of which they are the subject of numerous theoretical, experimental, and observational, and synthesis works, some of the key problems of generation, distribution, and interaction of these waves with other types of flows, as well as processes of their disintegration remain. In recent years, interest in the in-depth study of the short-wave part of the sea wave spectrum has been stimulated by the search for physical mechanisms for generating signals and signs that indicate topography, internal waves, and other phenomena in the ocean column in free-surface optical and radar images [1].
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Chapter 8. Anomalous Waves
Abstract
There is a great and incalculable variety of waves running on the surface of the seas, oceans, lakes and rivers. Parallel waves running up the shore, swell extending to the horizon generated by a powerful continuous storm, staggered horseshoe-shaped waves or porridge of pointed splashes-this is an incomplete list of pictures of waves that occur on the surface of the water. But, of course, the highest and most dangerous waves attract the eye first. And among these high waves are real giants. People encounter this amazing phenomenon much less often than with powerful storm surges, but the impression of meetings persists until the end of life, sometimes in the truest sense of the word.
Anatoly Kistovich, Konstantin Pokazeev, Tatiana Chaplina
Metadata
Title
Advanced Studies in Ocean Physics
Authors
Prof. Anatoly Kistovich
Prof. Konstantin Pokazeev
Prof. Tatiana Chaplina
Copyright Year
2021
Electronic ISBN
978-3-030-72269-2
Print ISBN
978-3-030-72268-5
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-72269-2