Skip to main content
Top

2005 | OriginalPaper | Chapter

H

Authors : Luis J. Moreno, Roger H. Charlier, Marie -Claire P. Chaineux, J. Pat Doody, H. Jesse Walker, Molly McGraw, Dieter Kelletat, Neil Roberts, George Mustoe, Richard A. Davis Jr., Diane Horn

Published in: Encyclopedia of Coastal Science

Publisher: Springer Netherlands

Activate our intelligent search to find suitable subject content or patents.

search-config
loading …

Excerpt

See Natural Hazards

Dont have a licence yet? Then find out more about our products and how to get one now:

Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik"

Online-Abonnement

Mit Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik" erhalten Sie Zugriff auf:

  • über 102.000 Bücher
  • über 537 Zeitschriften

aus folgenden Fachgebieten:

  • Automobil + Motoren
  • Bauwesen + Immobilien
  • Business IT + Informatik
  • Elektrotechnik + Elektronik
  • Energie + Nachhaltigkeit
  • Finance + Banking
  • Management + Führung
  • Marketing + Vertrieb
  • Maschinenbau + Werkstoffe
  • Versicherung + Risiko

Jetzt Wissensvorsprung sichern!

Springer Professional "Technik"

Online-Abonnement

Mit Springer Professional "Technik" erhalten Sie Zugriff auf:

  • über 67.000 Bücher
  • über 390 Zeitschriften

aus folgenden Fachgebieten:

  • Automobil + Motoren
  • Bauwesen + Immobilien
  • Business IT + Informatik
  • Elektrotechnik + Elektronik
  • Energie + Nachhaltigkeit
  • Maschinenbau + Werkstoffe




 

Jetzt Wissensvorsprung sichern!

Springer Professional "Wirtschaft"

Online-Abonnement

Mit Springer Professional "Wirtschaft" erhalten Sie Zugriff auf:

  • über 67.000 Bücher
  • über 340 Zeitschriften

aus folgenden Fachgebieten:

  • Bauwesen + Immobilien
  • Business IT + Informatik
  • Finance + Banking
  • Management + Führung
  • Marketing + Vertrieb
  • Versicherung + Risiko




Jetzt Wissensvorsprung sichern!

Literature
1.
go back to reference Bailard, J.A., 1982. Modelling on-offshore sediment transport in the surf zone. In Proceedings of the 18th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1419–1438. Bailard, J.A., 1982. Modelling on-offshore sediment transport in the surf zone. In Proceedings of the 18th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1419–1438.
2.
go back to reference Berenguer, J.M., and Enríquez, J., 1988. Design of pocket beaches. The Spanish case. In Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1411–1425. Berenguer, J.M., and Enríquez, J., 1988. Design of pocket beaches. The Spanish case. In Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1411–1425.
3.
go back to reference González, M., 1995. MorfologÍa de playas en equilibrio. Planta y perfil. Ph.D. dissertation Santander, Spain: Universidad de Cantabria (in Spanish). González, M., 1995. MorfologÍa de playas en equilibrio. Planta y perfil. Ph.D. dissertation Santander, Spain: Universidad de Cantabria (in Spanish).
4.
go back to reference Hsu, J.R.C, Selvester, R., and Xia, Y.M., 1987. New charae teristics of equilibrium shaped bays. In Proceedings of the 8th Australision Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering, American Society of Cevil Engineers, pp. 140–144. Hsu, J.R.C, Selvester, R., and Xia, Y.M., 1987. New charae teristics of equilibrium shaped bays. In Proceedings of the 8th Australision Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering, American Society of Cevil Engineers, pp. 140–144.
5.
go back to reference Johnson, D.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. New York: John Willey ⇐p; Sons. Johnson, D.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. New York: John Willey ⇐p; Sons.
6.
go back to reference Krumbein, W.C., 1944. Shore processes and beach characteristics. Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memorandum, No. 3. Washington, DC: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Krumbein, W.C., 1944. Shore processes and beach characteristics. Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memorandum, No. 3. Washington, DC: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
7.
go back to reference LeBlond, P.H., 1972. On the formation of spiral beaches. In Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1331–1345. LeBlond, P.H., 1972. On the formation of spiral beaches. In Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1331–1345.
8.
go back to reference Mashima, Y., 1961. Stable configuration of coastline. Coastal Engineering in Japan, 4: 47–59. Mashima, Y., 1961. Stable configuration of coastline. Coastal Engineering in Japan, 4: 47–59.
9.
go back to reference Moreno, L.J., 1997. Critical review of the headland-concept of shore protection. Master of Engineering Report. College Station, Texas, USA: A&M University. Moreno, L.J., 1997. Critical review of the headland-concept of shore protection. Master of Engineering Report. College Station, Texas, USA: A&M University.
10.
go back to reference Moreno, L.J., and Kraus, N.C., 1999. Equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches for engineering design. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 99, American Society of Civil Engineers, 1, pp. 860–875. Moreno, L.J., and Kraus, N.C., 1999. Equilibrium shape of headland-bay beaches for engineering design. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 99, American Society of Civil Engineers, 1, pp. 860–875.
11.
go back to reference Rea, C.C., and Komar, P.D., 1975. Computer simulation models of a hooked beach shoreline configuration. Journal of Sediment Petrology, 45: 866–872. Rea, C.C., and Komar, P.D., 1975. Computer simulation models of a hooked beach shoreline configuration. Journal of Sediment Petrology, 45: 866–872.
12.
go back to reference Silvester, R., 1960. Stabilization of sedimentary coastlines. Nature, 188: 467–469. Silvester, R., 1960. Stabilization of sedimentary coastlines. Nature, 188: 467–469.
13.
go back to reference Silvester, R., 1970. Growth of crenulate shaped bays to equilibrium. Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division, 96(2): 275–287. Silvester, R., 1970. Growth of crenulate shaped bays to equilibrium. Journal of Waterways and Harbors Division, 96(2): 275–287.
14.
go back to reference Silvester, R., 1976. Headland defense of coasts. In Proceedings of the 15th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1394–1406. Silvester, R., 1976. Headland defense of coasts. In Proceedings of the 15th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1394–1406.
15.
go back to reference Silvester, R., and Ho, S.K., 1972. Use of crenulate shaped bays to stabilize coasts. In Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1347–1365. Silvester, R., and Ho, S.K., 1972. Use of crenulate shaped bays to stabilize coasts. In Proceedings of the 13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 2, pp. 1347–1365.
16.
go back to reference Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C., 1991. New and old ideas in coastal sedimentation. Review in Aquatic Sciences, 4(4): 375–410. Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C., 1991. New and old ideas in coastal sedimentation. Review in Aquatic Sciences, 4(4): 375–410.
17.
go back to reference Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C., 1993. Coastal Stabilization: Innovative Concepts. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall. Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C., 1993. Coastal Stabilization: Innovative Concepts. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall.
18.
go back to reference Spătaru, A., 1990. Breakwaters for the protection of Romanian a beaches. Coastal Engineering, 14: 129–146. Spătaru, A., 1990. Breakwaters for the protection of Romanian a beaches. Coastal Engineering, 14: 129–146.
19.
go back to reference Walton, T.L., 1977. Equilibrium shores and coastal design. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 77, American Society of Civil Engineers, 1, pp. 1–16. Walton, T.L., 1977. Equilibrium shores and coastal design. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 77, American Society of Civil Engineers, 1, pp. 1–16.
20.
go back to reference Wind, H.G., 1994. An analytical model of crenulate shaped beaches. Coastal Engineering, 23(3–4): 243–253. Wind, H.G., 1994. An analytical model of crenulate shaped beaches. Coastal Engineering, 23(3–4): 243–253.
21.
go back to reference Yamashita, T., and Tsuchiya, Y., 1992. A numerical simulation of pocket beach formation. In Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 3, pp. 2556–2566. Yamashita, T., and Tsuchiya, Y., 1992. A numerical simulation of pocket beach formation. In Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 3, pp. 2556–2566.
22.
go back to reference Yasso, W.E., 1965. Plan geometry of headland-bay beaches. Journal of Geology, 73: 702–714. Yasso, W.E., 1965. Plan geometry of headland-bay beaches. Journal of Geology, 73: 702–714.
1.
go back to reference Anonymous, 1991. Les thermes romains. Actes de la Table-Ronde organisée par l’Ecole Française de Rome. Paris, Collect. Ecole Franç. de Rome No. 142. Anonymous, 1991. Les thermes romains. Actes de la Table-Ronde organisée par l’Ecole Française de Rome. Paris, Collect. Ecole Franç. de Rome No. 142.
2.
go back to reference Anonymous, 1996. European Commission Water Policy. Brussels, Office for Official Publications of the Commission of the European Communities. Anonymous, 1996. European Commission Water Policy. Brussels, Office for Official Publications of the Commission of the European Communities.
3.
go back to reference Anonymous, 1997. Enquête; suivi d’une cohorte de 3000 curistes durant 3 ans. Service National du Contrôle Médical-Caisse Nationale de l’Assurance Maladie des Travailleurs Salariés. Etudes et Enquêtes. Echelon National du Service Médical, 2. Anonymous, 1997. Enquête; suivi d’une cohorte de 3000 curistes durant 3 ans. Service National du Contrôle Médical-Caisse Nationale de l’Assurance Maladie des Travailleurs Salariés. Etudes et Enquêtes. Echelon National du Service Médical, 2.
4.
go back to reference Anonymous, 1999. The Dead Sea experience. Psoriasis Resource, 1(1/2): 1–4. Anonymous, 1999. The Dead Sea experience. Psoriasis Resource, 1(1/2): 1–4.
5.
go back to reference Anonymous, 1999. Discovering the Dead Sea. National Psoriasis Foundation Bulletin, 30(3): 1–3. Anonymous, 1999. Discovering the Dead Sea. National Psoriasis Foundation Bulletin, 30(3): 1–3.
6.
go back to reference Arehart, J.L., 1969. Oceanic drug chest. Sea Frontiers, 15: 99–107. Arehart, J.L., 1969. Oceanic drug chest. Sea Frontiers, 15: 99–107.
7.
go back to reference Bologa, A.S., 1985/1986. Present state of seaweed production along the Romanian Black Sea shore. Vie et Milieu, 39(2): 1–22. Bologa, A.S., 1985/1986. Present state of seaweed production along the Romanian Black Sea shore. Vie et Milieu, 39(2): 1–22.
8.
go back to reference Bologa, A.S. et al., 1999. Distribution of planktonic primary production in the Black Sea. In Besiktepe, S. et al., (eds.), Environmental Degradation of the Black Sea: Challenges and Remedies. Dordrecht, NL, Kluwer Academic Publishers, pp. 131–145. Bologa, A.S. et al., 1999. Distribution of planktonic primary production in the Black Sea. In Besiktepe, S. et al., (eds.), Environmental Degradation of the Black Sea: Challenges and Remedies. Dordrecht, NL, Kluwer Academic Publishers, pp. 131–145.
9.
go back to reference Boulangé, L.M., 1997. Thermalisme ou thermalismes. In Boulangé, M.L. (ed.), Les vertus des cures thermales. Montpellier, Editions Espace 34. Boulangé, L.M., 1997. Thermalisme ou thermalismes. In Boulangé, M.L. (ed.), Les vertus des cures thermales. Montpellier, Editions Espace 34.
10.
go back to reference Boulangé, L.M., 1997. Les vertus des cures thermales. Montpellier, Editions Espace 34. Boulangé, L.M., 1997. Les vertus des cures thermales. Montpellier, Editions Espace 34.
11.
go back to reference Boulangé, M., 1995. La place du thermalisme à l’aube de l’an 2000. Bulletin Social Science and Medicine [Luxembourg], 132,(2): 43–44. Boulangé, M., 1995. La place du thermalisme à l’aube de l’an 2000. Bulletin Social Science and Medicine [Luxembourg], 132,(2): 43–44.
12.
go back to reference Boulangé, M., 1995. Les effets généraux de la cure thermale. Presse thermale et climatique, 132(4): 213–216. Boulangé, M., 1995. Les effets généraux de la cure thermale. Presse thermale et climatique, 132(4): 213–216.
13.
go back to reference Boulangé, M., Collin, J.F. and Irlinger, P., 1989. Perspectives du thermalisme Français à l’aube de l’Europe. In Hérisson, C. (ed.), Crénothérapie et réadaptation fonctionnelles. Paris, Masson, pp. 259–264. Boulangé, M., Collin, J.F. and Irlinger, P., 1989. Perspectives du thermalisme Français à l’aube de l’Europe. In Hérisson, C. (ed.), Crénothérapie et réadaptation fonctionnelles. Paris, Masson, pp. 259–264.
14.
go back to reference Buchet, L., 1985. Médecine en Gaule. Médecine et chirurgie pendant les premiers siècles du moyen âge. Paris: Picard. Buchet, L., 1985. Médecine en Gaule. Médecine et chirurgie pendant les premiers siècles du moyen âge. Paris: Picard.
15.
go back to reference Charlier, R.H., 1975, Thalassotherapy. In Fairbridge, R.W and Schwartz, M. (eds.), Encyclopedia of Coasts and Beaches. Englewood Cliffs: NJ, Hutchinson et al. (Volume in the Encyclopedia of the Earth Sciences Series, pp. 807–813). Charlier, R.H., 1975, Thalassotherapy. In Fairbridge, R.W and Schwartz, M. (eds.), Encyclopedia of Coasts and Beaches. Englewood Cliffs: NJ, Hutchinson et al. (Volume in the Encyclopedia of the Earth Sciences Series, pp. 807–813).
16.
go back to reference Charlier, R.H., 1990. Algae—Resource or scourge? International Journal of Environmental Studies, 48(1): 77–91 (2), 237-250. Charlier, R.H., 1990. Algae—Resource or scourge? International Journal of Environmental Studies, 48(1): 77–91 (2), 237-250.
17.
go back to reference Charlier, R.H., 1999. Aquacide—An urgent need to legislate to protect: Viewpoint and review. International Journal of Environmental Studies, 56(2): 325–343. Charlier, R.H., 1999. Aquacide—An urgent need to legislate to protect: Viewpoint and review. International Journal of Environmental Studies, 56(2): 325–343.
18.
go back to reference Charlier, R.H. and Lonhienne, T., 1996. The management of eutrophicated waters. In Schramm, W. and Nienhuis, P.H. (eds.), Marine Benthic Vegetation. Recent changes and the Effects of Eutrophication, chapter II, pp. 46–78. Charlier, R.H. and Lonhienne, T., 1996. The management of eutrophicated waters. In Schramm, W. and Nienhuis, P.H. (eds.), Marine Benthic Vegetation. Recent changes and the Effects of Eutrophication, chapter II, pp. 46–78.
19.
go back to reference Collin, J.F., 1995. Situation compareée du thermalisme dans différents pays européens. Bulletin of Social Science and Médicine [Luxembourg], 132(2): 61–67. Collin, J.F., 1995. Situation compareée du thermalisme dans différents pays européens. Bulletin of Social Science and Médicine [Luxembourg], 132(2): 61–67.
20.
go back to reference Collin, J.F., 1997. Eléments d’évaluation médicale dans le domaine thermal. In Boulangé, L.M. (ed.), Les vertus des cures thermales: Montpellier, Editions Espace 34. Collin, J.F., 1997. Eléments d’évaluation médicale dans le domaine thermal. In Boulangé, L.M. (ed.), Les vertus des cures thermales: Montpellier, Editions Espace 34.
21.
go back to reference Constant, F., Collin, J.F., and Boulangé, M., 1995. Analyse bibliographique. Critique de la littérature médicale internationale dans le domaine des recherches thermales. Bulletin of Social Science and Medicine) [Luxembourg], 132(2): 49–59. Constant, F., Collin, J.F., and Boulangé, M., 1995. Analyse bibliographique. Critique de la littérature médicale internationale dans le domaine des recherches thermales. Bulletin of Social Science and Medicine) [Luxembourg], 132(2): 49–59.
22.
go back to reference Cotet, P., 1970. Les lacs dobrogéens et leurs rapports génétiques avec les changements de niveau de la Mer Noire: Travaux du Colloque National de Limnologie Physique [Romania] “Géographie des Lacs”, 27–45. Cotet, P., 1970. Les lacs dobrogéens et leurs rapports génétiques avec les changements de niveau de la Mer Noire: Travaux du Colloque National de Limnologie Physique [Romania] “Géographie des Lacs”, 27–45.
23.
go back to reference De Roeck-Holtzhaver, Y., 1991 in Guizy and Blunden op. cit. pp. 83–94. De Roeck-Holtzhaver, Y., 1991 in Guizy and Blunden op. cit. pp. 83–94.
24.
go back to reference François, H., 1999. Le thermalisme, source de santé. Plombières-lesbains, Editions Ronald Hirle, collection Calodae, pp. 298. François, H., 1999. Le thermalisme, source de santé. Plombières-lesbains, Editions Ronald Hirle, collection Calodae, pp. 298.
25.
go back to reference Găstescu, P., 1963. Lacurile din Republica Populara Romîna: Bucuresti: Editura Academici Republicii Populare Romîne. Găstescu, P., 1963. Lacurile din Republica Populara Romîna: Bucuresti: Editura Academici Republicii Populare Romîne.
26.
go back to reference Graber-Duvernay, B., 1999. Les acquis scientifiques du thermalisme en France. Paris: Fédération thermale et climatique française, pp. 34 Graber-Duvernay, B., 1999. Les acquis scientifiques du thermalisme en France. Paris: Fédération thermale et climatique française, pp. 34
27.
go back to reference Grenier, A., 1960. Les monuments romains: thermes, aqueducs. Archéologie Gallo-Romaine. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France. Grenier, A., 1960. Les monuments romains: thermes, aqueducs. Archéologie Gallo-Romaine. Paris: Presses Universitaires de France.
28.
go back to reference Gruber, M., 1968. The healing sea. Sea Frontiers, 14: 74–86. Gruber, M., 1968. The healing sea. Sea Frontiers, 14: 74–86.
29.
go back to reference Guillemin, F., Constant, J.F. and Boulangé, M., 1994. Short and long term effects of spa therapy in chronic low back pain. British Journal of Rheumatology, 33: 148–151. Guillemin, F., Constant, J.F. and Boulangé, M., 1994. Short and long term effects of spa therapy in chronic low back pain. British Journal of Rheumatology, 33: 148–151.
30.
go back to reference Guiry, M.D. and Blunden, G. (eds.), 1991. Seaweed Resources in Europe. Uses and Potential. Chichester, UK: John Wiley ⇐p; Sons. Guiry, M.D. and Blunden, G. (eds.), 1991. Seaweed Resources in Europe. Uses and Potential. Chichester, UK: John Wiley ⇐p; Sons.
31.
go back to reference Hérisson, C., 1989. Crénothérapie et réadaptation fonctionnelles. Paris: Masson. Hérisson, C., 1989. Crénothérapie et réadaptation fonctionnelles. Paris: Masson.
32.
go back to reference Jacob, H., 1570. Traité des admirables vertus des eaux de Bourbonne-les-Bains: Bourbonne-les-Bains, L’Auteur. Jacob, H., 1570. Traité des admirables vertus des eaux de Bourbonne-les-Bains: Bourbonne-les-Bains, L’Auteur.
33.
go back to reference Kretzschmer, F., 1966. La technique romaine. Bruxelles, Desclée-De Brouwer. Kretzschmer, F., 1966. La technique romaine. Bruxelles, Desclée-De Brouwer.
34.
go back to reference Lance, P., 1988. Le guide “marine” de la thalassothérapie. Paris: l’auteur, b.p. 102, F-75022, Cedex 01. Lance, P., 1988. Le guide “marine” de la thalassothérapie. Paris: l’auteur, b.p. 102, F-75022, Cedex 01.
35.
go back to reference Larivière, A., 1958. Les cures marines. Paris: Aubier. Larivière, A., 1958. Les cures marines. Paris: Aubier.
36.
go back to reference Malissard, A., 1994. Les romains et l’eau. Paris: Realia/Les Belles-Lettres. Malissard, A., 1994. Les romains et l’eau. Paris: Realia/Les Belles-Lettres.
37.
go back to reference Morand, P., Charlier, R.H., and Mazé, J., 1990. European bioconversion projects and realizations for macroalgal biomass: Saint-Cast-le-Guildo (France) experiment. Hydrobiologia, 204/205: 301–308. Morand, P., Charlier, R.H., and Mazé, J., 1990. European bioconversion projects and realizations for macroalgal biomass: Saint-Cast-le-Guildo (France) experiment. Hydrobiologia, 204/205: 301–308.
38.
go back to reference Petrova-Karadjova, V., 1990. Monitoring of the bloom along the Bulgarian Black Sea coast. Rapports de la Commission internationale pour la mer Méditerranée, 31(1): 209. Petrova-Karadjova, V., 1990. Monitoring of the bloom along the Bulgarian Black Sea coast. Rapports de la Commission internationale pour la mer Méditerranée, 31(1): 209.
39.
go back to reference Pricajan, A. and Opran, C., 1970. La protection et l’exploitation rationelle des lacs et des boues thérapeutiques. In Géographie des Lacs, Travaux du Colloque National de Limnologie Physique. Bucarest: Maison d’Editions de l’Etat. Pricajan, A. and Opran, C., 1970. La protection et l’exploitation rationelle des lacs et des boues thérapeutiques. In Géographie des Lacs, Travaux du Colloque National de Limnologie Physique. Bucarest: Maison d’Editions de l’Etat.
40.
go back to reference Rameau, J.C., 1980. Les thermes Gallo-Romains de Bourbonneles-Bains. Bourbonne-les-bains; Edit. de la Madeleine. Rameau, J.C., 1980. Les thermes Gallo-Romains de Bourbonneles-Bains. Bourbonne-les-bains; Edit. de la Madeleine.
41.
go back to reference Range, cited in Larivière C.I., 1935. Thalassotherapy. Archives Physical Therapy, X-Ray and Radium, Springer, 662–666. Range, cited in Larivière C.I., 1935. Thalassotherapy. Archives Physical Therapy, X-Ray and Radium, Springer, 662–666.
42.
go back to reference Russell, R., 1720. A Dissertation Concerning the Use of Seawater in Diseases of the Glands. Blackpool: The Author. Russell, R., 1720. A Dissertation Concerning the Use of Seawater in Diseases of the Glands. Blackpool: The Author.
43.
go back to reference Schramm, W. and Nienhuis, P.H. (eds.), 1996. Marine Benthic Vegetation Recent Changes and the Effects of Eutrophication. New York/Heidelberg: Springer Verlag. Schramm, W. and Nienhuis, P.H. (eds.), 1996. Marine Benthic Vegetation Recent Changes and the Effects of Eutrophication. New York/Heidelberg: Springer Verlag.
44.
go back to reference Translated from Procès-Verbal de l’Académie Impériale Française de Médecine, Séance du 5 février 1856. Translated from Procès-Verbal de l’Académie Impériale Française de Médecine, Séance du 5 février 1856.
45.
go back to reference Valnet, J., 1995. Aromathérapie. Paris: Maloine éditeurs. Valnet, J., 1995. Aromathérapie. Paris: Maloine éditeurs.
46.
go back to reference Woodcock, D.C., and Blanchard, A.H., 1957. Bubble formation and modification in the sea and its meteorological significances. Tellus, 9: 145–158. Woodcock, D.C., and Blanchard, A.H., 1957. Bubble formation and modification in the sea and its meteorological significances. Tellus, 9: 145–158.
1.
go back to reference Bird, E.C.F., 1984. Coasts-an Introduction to Coastal Geomorphology. Canberra: Australian National University Press. Bird, E.C.F., 1984. Coasts-an Introduction to Coastal Geomorphology. Canberra: Australian National University Press.
2.
go back to reference Carey, A.E. and Oliver, F.W., 1918. Tidal Lands, a Study in Shore Problems. London: Blackie and Son. Carey, A.E. and Oliver, F.W., 1918. Tidal Lands, a Study in Shore Problems. London: Blackie and Son.
3.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G., 1988. Coastal Environments. London: Academic Press. Carter, R.W.G., 1988. Coastal Environments. London: Academic Press.
4.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G. and Woodroffe, C.D. (eds.), 1994. Coastal Evolution, Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Carter, R.W.G. and Woodroffe, C.D. (eds.), 1994. Coastal Evolution, Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
5.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G., and Woodroffe, C.D. (eds.), 1994. Coastal Evolution, Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Carter, R.W.G., and Woodroffe, C.D. (eds.), 1994. Coastal Evolution, Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
6.
go back to reference Chapman, V.J., 1934. The ecology of Scolt Head Island. In Stress, J.A. (ed.), Scolt Head Island, Cambridge: W. Heffer ⇐p; Sons, pp. 77–145. Chapman, V.J., 1934. The ecology of Scolt Head Island. In Stress, J.A. (ed.), Scolt Head Island, Cambridge: W. Heffer ⇐p; Sons, pp. 77–145.
7.
go back to reference Chapman, V.J., 1938. Studies in salt marsh ecology, I–III. Journal of Ecology, 26: 144–179. Chapman, V.J., 1938. Studies in salt marsh ecology, I–III. Journal of Ecology, 26: 144–179.
8.
go back to reference Chapman, V.J., 1941. Studies in salt marsh ecology, IV. Journal of Ecology, 29: 69–82. Chapman, V.J., 1941. Studies in salt marsh ecology, IV. Journal of Ecology, 29: 69–82.
9.
go back to reference Chapman, V.J., 1959. Studies in salt marsh ecology, IX. Changes in salt marsh vegetation at Scolt Head Island. Journal of Ecology, 47: 619–639. Chapman, V.J., 1959. Studies in salt marsh ecology, IX. Changes in salt marsh vegetation at Scolt Head Island. Journal of Ecology, 47: 619–639.
10.
go back to reference Chapman, V.J., 1976. Coastal Vegetation. Oxford: Pergammon Press. Chapman, V.J., 1976. Coastal Vegetation. Oxford: Pergammon Press.
11.
go back to reference Coles, J.M., 1964. New aspects of Mesolithic settlement of south-west Scotland. Transactions Dumfries and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society, XII: 67–98. Coles, J.M., 1964. New aspects of Mesolithic settlement of south-west Scotland. Transactions Dumfries and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian Society, XII: 67–98.
12.
go back to reference Dijkema, K.S. (ed.), 1984. Salt marshes in Europe. Strasbourg: Council of Europe, Nature and Environment Series, No. 30. Dijkema, K.S. (ed.), 1984. Salt marshes in Europe. Strasbourg: Council of Europe, Nature and Environment Series, No. 30.
13.
go back to reference Doody, J.P., 2001. Coastal Conservation and Management: an Ecological Perspective. Boston: Kluwer Academic Publishers. Doody, J.P., 2001. Coastal Conservation and Management: an Ecological Perspective. Boston: Kluwer Academic Publishers.
14.
go back to reference Du-Plat-Taylor, F.M., 1931. The Reclamation of Land from the Sea. London: Constable ⇐p; Company. Du-Plat-Taylor, F.M., 1931. The Reclamation of Land from the Sea. London: Constable ⇐p; Company.
15.
go back to reference Johnson, D.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. New York: Prentice Hall. Johnson, D.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. New York: Prentice Hall.
16.
go back to reference Marchant. C.J., 1967. Evolution in Spartina (Gramineae). I, The history and morphology of the genus in Britain. Journal of the Linnaean Society (Botany), 60: 1–26. Marchant. C.J., 1967. Evolution in Spartina (Gramineae). I, The history and morphology of the genus in Britain. Journal of the Linnaean Society (Botany), 60: 1–26.
17.
go back to reference Matthews, E.R., 1934. Coast Erosion and Protection. London: Charles Griffin ⇐p; Company. Matthews, E.R., 1934. Coast Erosion and Protection. London: Charles Griffin ⇐p; Company.
18.
go back to reference Oliver, F.W., and Salisbury, E.J., 1913. Vegetation and mobile ground as illustrated by Suaeda fruticosa on shingle. Journal of Ecology, 1: 249–272. Oliver, F.W., and Salisbury, E.J., 1913. Vegetation and mobile ground as illustrated by Suaeda fruticosa on shingle. Journal of Ecology, 1: 249–272.
19.
go back to reference Ranwell, D.S., 1972. Ecology of Salt marshes and Sand Dunes. London: Chapman and Hall. Ranwell, D.S., 1972. Ecology of Salt marshes and Sand Dunes. London: Chapman and Hall.
20.
go back to reference Ritchie, A., and Ritchie, G., 1978. The Ancient Monuments of Orkney. Edinburgh: HMSO. Ritchie, A., and Ritchie, G., 1978. The Ancient Monuments of Orkney. Edinburgh: HMSO.
21.
go back to reference Salisbury, E., 1952. Downs and Dunes, their Plant Life and its Environment. London: G. Bell ⇐p; Sons. Salisbury, E., 1952. Downs and Dunes, their Plant Life and its Environment. London: G. Bell ⇐p; Sons.
22.
go back to reference Sheail, J., 1987. Seventy-Five Years in Ecology. The British Ecological Society, Oxford: Blackwell Scientific Publications. Sheail, J., 1987. Seventy-Five Years in Ecology. The British Ecological Society, Oxford: Blackwell Scientific Publications.
23.
go back to reference Simmons, I., 1980. Iron Age and Roman coast around the Wash. In Archaeology and Coastal Change, Thompson, F.H. (ed.), London: The Society of Antiquities, Occasional Paper No. 1. Simmons, I., 1980. Iron Age and Roman coast around the Wash. In Archaeology and Coastal Change, Thompson, F.H. (ed.), London: The Society of Antiquities, Occasional Paper No. 1.
24.
go back to reference Steers, J.A., 1946. The Coastline of England and Wales. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Steers, J.A., 1946. The Coastline of England and Wales. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
25.
go back to reference Steers, J.A., 1972. The Coastline of Scotland. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Steers, J.A., 1972. The Coastline of Scotland. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
26.
go back to reference Stephenson, T.A., and Stephenson, A., 1972. Life Between Tidemarks on Rocky Shores. San Francisco: Freeman. Stephenson, T.A., and Stephenson, A., 1972. Life Between Tidemarks on Rocky Shores. San Francisco: Freeman.
27.
go back to reference Tansley, A.G., 1949. The British Islands and their Vegetation. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Tansley, A.G., 1949. The British Islands and their Vegetation. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
28.
go back to reference Van der Maarel, E., 1993. Dry coastal ecosystems: scope and historical significance. In E. van der Maarel (ed.), Ecosystems of the World: Dry Coastal Ecosystems, Polar Regions and Europe, Amsterdam, Elsevier, pp. 1-6. Van der Maarel, E., 1993. Dry coastal ecosystems: scope and historical significance. In E. van der Maarel (ed.), Ecosystems of the World: Dry Coastal Ecosystems, Polar Regions and Europe, Amsterdam, Elsevier, pp. 1-6.
29.
go back to reference Wheeler, W.H., 1903. The Sea Coast. London: Longmans, Green and Company. Wheeler, W.H., 1903. The Sea Coast. London: Longmans, Green and Company.
30.
go back to reference Yapp, R.H., Johns, D., and Jones, O.T., 1917. The salt marshes of the Dovey Estuary. II, The salt marshes. Journal of Ecology, 5: 65–103. Yapp, R.H., Johns, D., and Jones, O.T., 1917. The salt marshes of the Dovey Estuary. II, The salt marshes. Journal of Ecology, 5: 65–103.
1.
go back to reference Bagnold, R.A., 1941. The Physics of Blown Sand and Desert Dunes. London: Chapman and Hall. Bagnold, R.A., 1941. The Physics of Blown Sand and Desert Dunes. London: Chapman and Hall.
2.
go back to reference Baker, V.R., 1993. Extraterrestrial geomorphology: science and philosophy of Earthlike planetary landscapes. Geomorphology, 7(1–3): 9–35. Baker, V.R., 1993. Extraterrestrial geomorphology: science and philosophy of Earthlike planetary landscapes. Geomorphology, 7(1–3): 9–35.
3.
go back to reference Baker, V.R., 2001. Editorial: extraterrestrial geomorphology: an introduction. Geomorphology, 37(3–4): 175–178. Baker, V.R., 2001. Editorial: extraterrestrial geomorphology: an introduction. Geomorphology, 37(3–4): 175–178.
4.
go back to reference Bird, E.C.F., 1969. Coasts. Cambridge, MA: M.I.T. Press. Bird, E.C.F., 1969. Coasts. Cambridge, MA: M.I.T. Press.
5.
go back to reference Bird, E.C.F. (ed.), 1996. Beach Management. Chichester: Wiley & Sons. Bird, E.C.F. (ed.), 1996. Beach Management. Chichester: Wiley & Sons.
6.
go back to reference Bowen, A.J., and Inman, D.L., 1966. Budget of Littoral Sands in the Vicinity of Point Arguello, California. U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 19p. Bowen, A.J., and Inman, D.L., 1966. Budget of Littoral Sands in the Vicinity of Point Arguello, California. U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, 19p.
7.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G., and Stone, G.W., 1989. Mechanisms associated with the erosion of sand dune cliffs, Magilligan, Northern Ireland. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 14: 1–10. Carter, R.W.G., and Stone, G.W., 1989. Mechanisms associated with the erosion of sand dune cliffs, Magilligan, Northern Ireland. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 14: 1–10.
8.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G., Nordstrom, K. F., and Psuty, N.P., 1990. The study of coastal dunes. In Nordstrom, K., Psuty, N., and Carter, B. (eds.), Coastal Dunes: Form and Process. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, pp. 1–14. Carter, R.W.G., Nordstrom, K. F., and Psuty, N.P., 1990. The study of coastal dunes. In Nordstrom, K., Psuty, N., and Carter, B. (eds.), Coastal Dunes: Form and Process. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, pp. 1–14.
9.
go back to reference Chorley, R.J., Beckinsale, R.P., and Dunn, A.J., 1973. The History of the Study of Landforms, Volume 2: The Life and Work of William Morris Davis. London: Methuen and Co. Chorley, R.J., Beckinsale, R.P., and Dunn, A.J., 1973. The History of the Study of Landforms, Volume 2: The Life and Work of William Morris Davis. London: Methuen and Co.
10.
go back to reference Chorley, R.J., Dunn, A.J., and Beckinsale, R.P., 1964. The History of the Study of Landforms, Volume 1: Geomorphology Before Davis. London: Methuen and Co. Chorley, R.J., Dunn, A.J., and Beckinsale, R.P., 1964. The History of the Study of Landforms, Volume 1: Geomorphology Before Davis. London: Methuen and Co.
11.
go back to reference Coates, D.R., 1973. Coastal Geomorphology. Binghamton: State University of New York. Coates, D.R., 1973. Coastal Geomorphology. Binghamton: State University of New York.
12.
go back to reference Davies, J.L., 1973. Geographical Variation in Coastal Development. New York: Hafner Publishing Co. Davies, J.L., 1973. Geographical Variation in Coastal Development. New York: Hafner Publishing Co.
13.
go back to reference Davis, W.M., 1896. The outline of Cape Cod. In Geographical Essays. New York: Dover Publications, 1954 reprint, pp. 690–724. Davis, W.M., 1896. The outline of Cape Cod. In Geographical Essays. New York: Dover Publications, 1954 reprint, pp. 690–724.
14.
go back to reference Davis, W.M., 1899. The geographical cycle. Geographical Journal, 14: 481–504. Davis, W.M., 1899. The geographical cycle. Geographical Journal, 14: 481–504.
15.
go back to reference Davis, W.M., 1905. Complications of the geographical cycle. In 8th International Geographical Congress, Washington, 1904, Report, pp. 150–163. (Reprinted in Davis, W.M., 1954, Geographical Essays. New York: Dover Publications, pp. 279–295.) Davis, W.M., 1905. Complications of the geographical cycle. In 8th International Geographical Congress, Washington, 1904, Report, pp. 150–163. (Reprinted in Davis, W.M., 1954, Geographical Essays. New York: Dover Publications, pp. 279–295.)
16.
go back to reference Downing, J.P., Sternberg, R.W., and Lister, C.R.B., 1981. New instrumentation for the investigation of sediment suspension processes in the shallow marine environment. Marine Geology, 42: 19–34. Downing, J.P., Sternberg, R.W., and Lister, C.R.B., 1981. New instrumentation for the investigation of sediment suspension processes in the shallow marine environment. Marine Geology, 42: 19–34.
17.
go back to reference El Ray, M., Nasr, S., Frihy, O., Desouky, S., and Dewidar, K., 1995. Potential impacts of accelerated sea level rise on Alexandria Governorate, Egypt. Journal of Coastal Research, 14: 229–307. El Ray, M., Nasr, S., Frihy, O., Desouky, S., and Dewidar, K., 1995. Potential impacts of accelerated sea level rise on Alexandria Governorate, Egypt. Journal of Coastal Research, 14: 229–307.
18.
go back to reference Fairbridge, R.W., (ed.), 1975. Contributions to Coastal Geomorphology. Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie Supplement, 22. Fairbridge, R.W., (ed.), 1975. Contributions to Coastal Geomorphology. Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie Supplement, 22.
19.
go back to reference Finkl, C.W., and Walker, H.J., 2002. Beach nourishment. In Chen, J.-Y., Eisma, D., Hotta, K., and Walker, H. (eds.), Engineered Coasts. Dordrecht: Kluwer Academic Publishers, pp. 1–22. Finkl, C.W., and Walker, H.J., 2002. Beach nourishment. In Chen, J.-Y., Eisma, D., Hotta, K., and Walker, H. (eds.), Engineered Coasts. Dordrecht: Kluwer Academic Publishers, pp. 1–22.
20.
go back to reference Fisher, J.S., and Dolan, R. (eds.), 1977. Beach Processes and Coastal Hydrodynamics. Stroudsburg, PA: Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross. Fisher, J.S., and Dolan, R. (eds.), 1977. Beach Processes and Coastal Hydrodynamics. Stroudsburg, PA: Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross.
21.
go back to reference French, P.W., 2001. Coastal Defences. London: Routledge French, P.W., 2001. Coastal Defences. London: Routledge
22.
go back to reference Geike, A., 1897. The Founders of Geology. New York: Dover Publications, 1962 reprint. Geike, A., 1897. The Founders of Geology. New York: Dover Publications, 1962 reprint.
23.
go back to reference Gilbert, G.K., 1885. The topographic features of lake shores. U.S. Geological Survey Annual Report, 5: 65–123. Gilbert, G.K., 1885. The topographic features of lake shores. U.S. Geological Survey Annual Report, 5: 65–123.
24.
go back to reference Gilbert, G.K., 1890. Lake Bonneville. Washington, DC: U.S. Geological Survey Monograph I, 438 p. Gilbert, G.K., 1890. Lake Bonneville. Washington, DC: U.S. Geological Survey Monograph I, 438 p.
25.
go back to reference Gilbert, G.K., 1893. The moon’s face: a study of the origin of its features. Philosophical Society of Washington Bulletin, 12: 241–292. Gilbert, G.K., 1893. The moon’s face: a study of the origin of its features. Philosophical Society of Washington Bulletin, 12: 241–292.
26.
go back to reference Guilcher, A., 1954. Morphologie Littorale et Sous-Marine. Paris: Presses universitairies de France. Guilcher, A., 1954. Morphologie Littorale et Sous-Marine. Paris: Presses universitairies de France.
27.
go back to reference Guilcher, A., 1988. Coral Reef Geomorphology. Chichester: Wiley. Guilcher, A., 1988. Coral Reef Geomorphology. Chichester: Wiley.
28.
go back to reference Gulliver, F.P., 1899. Shoreline topography. Proceedings of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 34: 149–258. Gulliver, F.P., 1899. Shoreline topography. Proceedings of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 34: 149–258.
29.
go back to reference Guza, R.T., Thornton, E.B., and Holman, R.A., 1984. Swash on steep and shallow beaches. Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 708–723. Guza, R.T., Thornton, E.B., and Holman, R.A., 1984. Swash on steep and shallow beaches. Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, pp. 708–723.
30.
go back to reference Hails, J.R., and Carr, A.P. (eds.), 1975. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics and Sedimentation. New York: John Wiley & Sons. Hails, J.R., and Carr, A.P. (eds.), 1975. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics and Sedimentation. New York: John Wiley & Sons.
31.
go back to reference Han, M., Wu, L., Hou, J., Liu, C., Zhao, S., and Zhang, Z., 1995. Sea-level rise and the North China coastal plain: a preliminary analysis. Journal of Coastal Research, 14: 132–150. Han, M., Wu, L., Hou, J., Liu, C., Zhao, S., and Zhang, Z., 1995. Sea-level rise and the North China coastal plain: a preliminary analysis. Journal of Coastal Research, 14: 132–150.
32.
go back to reference Haslett, S.K., 2000. Coastal Systems. London: Routledge. Haslett, S.K., 2000. Coastal Systems. London: Routledge.
33.
go back to reference Hesp, P.A., 1988. Surfzone, beach and foredune interactions on the Australian south east coast. Journal of Coastal Research, 3 (Special issue): 15–25. Hesp, P.A., 1988. Surfzone, beach and foredune interactions on the Australian south east coast. Journal of Coastal Research, 3 (Special issue): 15–25.
34.
go back to reference Hibberd, S., and Peregrine, D.H., 1979. Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 95: 323–345. Hibberd, S., and Peregrine, D.H., 1979. Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 95: 323–345.
35.
go back to reference Horn, D.P., 1997. Beach Research in the 1990s. Progress in Physical Geography, 21(3): 454–470. Horn, D.P., 1997. Beach Research in the 1990s. Progress in Physical Geography, 21(3): 454–470.
36.
go back to reference Hotta, S., 1988. Sand transport by wind. In Horikawa, K. (ed.), Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Processes. Tokyo: University of Tokyo Press, pp. 218–238. Hotta, S., 1988. Sand transport by wind. In Horikawa, K. (ed.), Nearshore Dynamics and Coastal Processes. Tokyo: University of Tokyo Press, pp. 218–238.
37.
go back to reference Hsu, S.A., 1977. Boundary-layer meteorological research in the coastal zone. In Walker, H.J. (ed.), Geoscience and Man, Volume XVIII, I Research Techniques in Coastal Environment. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University School of Geoscience, pp. 99–111. Hsu, S.A., 1977. Boundary-layer meteorological research in the coastal zone. In Walker, H.J. (ed.), Geoscience and Man, Volume XVIII, I Research Techniques in Coastal Environment. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University School of Geoscience, pp. 99–111.
38.
go back to reference Illenberger, W.K., and Rust, I.C., 1988. A sand budget for the Alexandria coastal dunefield, South Africa. Sedimentology, 35: 513–521. Illenberger, W.K., and Rust, I.C., 1988. A sand budget for the Alexandria coastal dunefield, South Africa. Sedimentology, 35: 513–521.
39.
go back to reference Inman, D.L., and Nordstrom, C.E., 1971. On the tectonic and morphologic classification of coasts. Journal of Geology, 79: 1–21. Inman, D.L., and Nordstrom, C.E., 1971. On the tectonic and morphologic classification of coasts. Journal of Geology, 79: 1–21.
40.
go back to reference Ippen, A.T., 1966. Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics. New York: McGraw-Hill. Ippen, A.T., 1966. Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics. New York: McGraw-Hill.
41.
go back to reference Jackson, N.L., and Nordstrom, K.F., 1998. Aeolian transport of sedimentation on a beach during and after rainfall, Wildwood, NJ, USA. Geomorphology, 22: 151–157. Jackson, N.L., and Nordstrom, K.F., 1998. Aeolian transport of sedimentation on a beach during and after rainfall, Wildwood, NJ, USA. Geomorphology, 22: 151–157.
42.
go back to reference Johnson, D.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. New York: John Wiley & Sons. Johnson, D.W., 1919. Shore Processes and Shoreline Development. New York: John Wiley & Sons.
43.
go back to reference Kaiser, K. (ed.), 1968. Küstengeomorphologie, Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie Supplement, 7. Kaiser, K. (ed.), 1968. Küstengeomorphologie, Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie Supplement, 7.
44.
go back to reference King, C.A.M., 1972. Beaches and Coasts. New York: St. Martin’s Press. King, C.A.M., 1972. Beaches and Coasts. New York: St. Martin’s Press.
45.
go back to reference Komar, P.D., 1976. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall. Komar, P.D., 1976. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall.
46.
go back to reference Krumbein, W.C., 1944. Shore Processes and Beach Characteristics. TM-8, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board, Washington, DC. Krumbein, W.C., 1944. Shore Processes and Beach Characteristics. TM-8, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board, Washington, DC.
47.
go back to reference Lauff, G.H. (ed.), 1967. Estuaries. Washington, DC: American Association for the Advancement of Science. Lauff, G.H. (ed.), 1967. Estuaries. Washington, DC: American Association for the Advancement of Science.
48.
go back to reference Long, A., 2001. Mid-Holocene sea-level change and coastal evolution: Process in Physical Geography, 25(3): 399–408. Long, A., 2001. Mid-Holocene sea-level change and coastal evolution: Process in Physical Geography, 25(3): 399–408.
49.
go back to reference Longinov, V.V. (ed.), 1969. Dynamics and Morphology of Sea Coasts. Institute of Oceanology (Moscow) Trans. 48 (translated from the Russian). Washington, DC: U.S. Department of Commerce. Longinov, V.V. (ed.), 1969. Dynamics and Morphology of Sea Coasts. Institute of Oceanology (Moscow) Trans. 48 (translated from the Russian). Washington, DC: U.S. Department of Commerce.
50.
go back to reference Mason, C., Birkemeier, W.A., and Howd, P.A., 1987. Overview of DUCK85 nearshore process experiment. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediment’ 87, ASCE, pp. 818–833. Mason, C., Birkemeier, W.A., and Howd, P.A., 1987. Overview of DUCK85 nearshore process experiment. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediment’ 87, ASCE, pp. 818–833.
51.
go back to reference Mather, K.F., and Mason, S.L., 1939. A Source Book in Geology 1400–1900. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press. Mather, K.F., and Mason, S.L., 1939. A Source Book in Geology 1400–1900. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
52.
go back to reference McCann, S.B., 1982. Coastal landforms. Progress in Physical Geography, 6(3): 439–445. McCann, S.B., 1982. Coastal landforms. Progress in Physical Geography, 6(3): 439–445.
53.
go back to reference Meyer, R.E. (ed.), 1972. Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport. New York: Academic Press. Meyer, R.E. (ed.), 1972. Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport. New York: Academic Press.
54.
go back to reference Mitch, W.J., and Gosselink, J.G., 2000. Wetlands, 3rd edn. New York: John Wiley & Sons. Mitch, W.J., and Gosselink, J.G., 2000. Wetlands, 3rd edn. New York: John Wiley & Sons.
55.
go back to reference Nordstrom, K.F., Psuty, N.P., and Carter, R.W.G., 1990. Coastal Dunes. Chichester: Wiley. Nordstrom, K.F., Psuty, N.P., and Carter, R.W.G., 1990. Coastal Dunes. Chichester: Wiley.
56.
go back to reference Parker, T.J., and Currey, D.R., 2001. Extraterrestrial coastal geomorphology. Geomorphology, 37(3–4): 303–328. Parker, T.J., and Currey, D.R., 2001. Extraterrestrial coastal geomorphology. Geomorphology, 37(3–4): 303–328.
57.
go back to reference Parker, T.J., Gorsline, D.S., Saunders, R.S., Pieri, D.C., and Schnelberger, D.M., 1993. Coastal geomorphology of the Martian Northern Plains. Journal of Geophysical Research, 98: 11061–11078. Parker, T.J., Gorsline, D.S., Saunders, R.S., Pieri, D.C., and Schnelberger, D.M., 1993. Coastal geomorphology of the Martian Northern Plains. Journal of Geophysical Research, 98: 11061–11078.
58.
go back to reference Penrose, B., 1955. Travel and Discovery in the Renaissance. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press. Penrose, B., 1955. Travel and Discovery in the Renaissance. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
59.
go back to reference Pilarczyk, K.W. (ed.), 1990. Coastal Protection. Rotterdam: Balkema. Pilarczyk, K.W. (ed.), 1990. Coastal Protection. Rotterdam: Balkema.
60.
go back to reference Reed, D.J., 1995. The response of coastal marshes to sea-level rise: survival or submergence? Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 20: 39–48. Reed, D.J., 1995. The response of coastal marshes to sea-level rise: survival or submergence? Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 20: 39–48.
61.
go back to reference Russell, R.J., 1936. Physiography of lower Mississippi River delta. Baton Rouge: Louisiana Department of Conservation, Geological Survey Bulletin, 8: 3–199. Russell, R.J., 1936. Physiography of lower Mississippi River delta. Baton Rouge: Louisiana Department of Conservation, Geological Survey Bulletin, 8: 3–199.
62.
go back to reference Russell, R.J., 1967. Aspects of coastal morphology. Geografiska Annaler, Series A, 2–4: 299–309. Russell, R.J., 1967. Aspects of coastal morphology. Geografiska Annaler, Series A, 2–4: 299–309.
63.
go back to reference Russell, R.J., 1968. Foreword. In Kaiser, pp. v–vii. Russell, R.J., 1968. Foreword. In Kaiser, pp. v–vii.
64.
go back to reference Schou, A., 1964. Bibliography 1959–1963. International Geographical Union, Commission in Coastal Geomorphology. Folia Geographica Danica, X(1). Schou, A., 1964. Bibliography 1959–1963. International Geographical Union, Commission in Coastal Geomorphology. Folia Geographica Danica, X(1).
65.
go back to reference Schwartz, M.L., 1967. The Bruun Theory of sea-level rise as a cause of shore erosion. Journal of Geology, 75: 76–92. Schwartz, M.L., 1967. The Bruun Theory of sea-level rise as a cause of shore erosion. Journal of Geology, 75: 76–92.
66.
go back to reference Schwartz, M.L. (ed.), 1972. Spits and Bars. Stroudsburg, PA: Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross. Schwartz, M.L. (ed.), 1972. Spits and Bars. Stroudsburg, PA: Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross.
67.
go back to reference Schwartz, M.L. (ed.), 1973. Barrier Islands. Stroudsburg, PA: Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross. Schwartz, M.L. (ed.), 1973. Barrier Islands. Stroudsburg, PA: Dowden, Hutchinson & Ross.
68.
go back to reference Seymour, R.J., 1987. An assessment of NSTS. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 87, ASCE, pp. 642–651. Seymour, R.J., 1987. An assessment of NSTS. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 87, ASCE, pp. 642–651.
69.
go back to reference Shepard, F.P., and Wanless, H.R., 1971. Our Changing Coastlines. New York: McGraw-Hill. Shepard, F.P., and Wanless, H.R., 1971. Our Changing Coastlines. New York: McGraw-Hill.
70.
go back to reference Sherman, D.J., and Bauer, B.O., 1993. Coastal geomorphology through a looking glass. Geomorphology, 7: 225–250. Sherman, D.J., and Bauer, B.O., 1993. Coastal geomorphology through a looking glass. Geomorphology, 7: 225–250.
71.
go back to reference Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C., 1991. New and old ideas in coastal sedimentation. Reviews in Aquatic Science, 4(4): 375–410. Silvester, R., and Hsu, J.R.C., 1991. New and old ideas in coastal sedimentation. Reviews in Aquatic Science, 4(4): 375–410.
72.
go back to reference Stapor, F.W., 1971. Sediment budgets on a compartmented low-to-moderate energy coast in Northwest Florida. Marine Geology, 10: 1–7. Stapor, F.W., 1971. Sediment budgets on a compartmented low-to-moderate energy coast in Northwest Florida. Marine Geology, 10: 1–7.
73.
go back to reference Stephenson, W.L., 2000. Shore platforms: a neglected coastal feature?. Progress in Physical Geography, 24(3): 311–327. Stephenson, W.L., 2000. Shore platforms: a neglected coastal feature?. Progress in Physical Geography, 24(3): 311–327.
74.
go back to reference Stoddart, D.R., and Reed, D.J., 1990. Sea-level rise as a global geomorphic issue. Progress in Physical Geography, 14(4): 441–445. Stoddart, D.R., and Reed, D.J., 1990. Sea-level rise as a global geomorphic issue. Progress in Physical Geography, 14(4): 441–445.
75.
go back to reference Strahler, A.N., 1952. Hyposemetric (area-altitude) analysis of erosional topography. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 63: 1117–1142. Strahler, A.N., 1952. Hyposemetric (area-altitude) analysis of erosional topography. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 63: 1117–1142.
76.
go back to reference Sunamura, T., 1992. Geomorphology of Rocky Coasts. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons. Sunamura, T., 1992. Geomorphology of Rocky Coasts. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons.
77.
go back to reference Tedrow, J.C.F., and Deelman, J.C. (eds.), 1975. Soil Science, 119(1). Baltimore, MD: Williams and Wilkins. Tedrow, J.C.F., and Deelman, J.C. (eds.), 1975. Soil Science, 119(1). Baltimore, MD: Williams and Wilkins.
78.
go back to reference Thomas, W.L., Jr. (ed.), 1956. Man’s Role in Changing the Face of the Earth. Chicago: University of Chicago Press. Thomas, W.L., Jr. (ed.), 1956. Man’s Role in Changing the Face of the Earth. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
79.
go back to reference Trask, P.D. (ed.), 1939. Recent Marine Sediments. New York: Dover Publications, 1968 reprint. Trask, P.D. (ed.), 1939. Recent Marine Sediments. New York: Dover Publications, 1968 reprint.
80.
go back to reference Trenhaile, A.S., and Byrne, M., 1986. A theoretical investigation of Holocene development of rock coasts, with particular reference to shore platforms. Geografiska Annaler, 68A: 1–14. Trenhaile, A.S., and Byrne, M., 1986. A theoretical investigation of Holocene development of rock coasts, with particular reference to shore platforms. Geografiska Annaler, 68A: 1–14.
81.
go back to reference Turner, B.L., II (ed.), 1990. The Earth as Transformed by Human Action. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Turner, B.L., II (ed.), 1990. The Earth as Transformed by Human Action. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
82.
go back to reference Viles, H.A., 1989. The greenhouse effect, sea-level rise, and coastal morphology. Progress in Physical Geography, 13(3): 452–461. Viles, H.A., 1989. The greenhouse effect, sea-level rise, and coastal morphology. Progress in Physical Geography, 13(3): 452–461.
83.
go back to reference Viles, H.A., 1990. Coastal geomorphology in the 1990s. Progress in Physical Geography, 14(2): 238–250. Viles, H.A., 1990. Coastal geomorphology in the 1990s. Progress in Physical Geography, 14(2): 238–250.
84.
go back to reference Viles, H.A., and Naylor, L.A., 2002. The (W)hole story: broadening biogeomorphology research. Abstracts of Conference Papers. Transactions, Japanese Geomorphological Union, 22(4): C–167. Viles, H.A., and Naylor, L.A., 2002. The (W)hole story: broadening biogeomorphology research. Abstracts of Conference Papers. Transactions, Japanese Geomorphological Union, 22(4): C–167.
85.
go back to reference Viles, H.A., and Spencer, T., 1995. Coastal Problems. London: Edward Arnold. Viles, H.A., and Spencer, T., 1995. Coastal Problems. London: Edward Arnold.
86.
go back to reference Walker, H.J., 1975. Coastal morphology. Soil Science, 119: 3–19. Walker, H.J., 1975. Coastal morphology. Soil Science, 119: 3–19.
87.
go back to reference Walker, H.J. (ed.), 1976. Coastal Research. Geoscience and Man, Volume XIV. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University. Walker, H.J. (ed.), 1976. Coastal Research. Geoscience and Man, Volume XIV. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University.
88.
go back to reference Walker, H.J. (ed.), 1977. Research Techniques in Coastal Environments Geoscience and Man, Volume XVIII. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University. Walker, H.J. (ed.), 1977. Research Techniques in Coastal Environments Geoscience and Man, Volume XVIII. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University.
89.
go back to reference Walker, H.J. (ed.), 1988. Artificial Structures and Shorelines. Dordrecht: Kluwer Academic Publishers. Walker, H.J. (ed.), 1988. Artificial Structures and Shorelines. Dordrecht: Kluwer Academic Publishers.
90.
go back to reference Walker, J., 1966. In Scott, H.W. (ed.), Lectures on Geology. Chicago, II: University of Chicago Press. Walker, J., 1966. In Scott, H.W. (ed.), Lectures on Geology. Chicago, II: University of Chicago Press.
91.
go back to reference Wang, Y., 1989. The mudflat coast of China. Canadian Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences, 40: 160–171. Wang, Y., 1989. The mudflat coast of China. Canadian Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences, 40: 160–171.
92.
go back to reference Williams, W.W., 1947. The determination of gradients on enemy held beaches. The Geographical Journal, 109: 76–92. Williams, W.W., 1947. The determination of gradients on enemy held beaches. The Geographical Journal, 109: 76–92.
93.
go back to reference Williams, W.W., 1960. Coastal Change. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul. Williams, W.W., 1960. Coastal Change. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul.
94.
go back to reference Willis, D.H., 1987. The Canadian coastal sediment study: an overview. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 87, ASCE, pp. 682–693. Willis, D.H., 1987. The Canadian coastal sediment study: an overview. In Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments’ 87, ASCE, pp. 682–693.
95.
go back to reference Woodroffe, C.D., 1995. Response of tide-dominated mangrove shorelines in Northern Australia to anticipated sea-level rise. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 20: 65–85. Woodroffe, C.D., 1995. Response of tide-dominated mangrove shorelines in Northern Australia to anticipated sea-level rise. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 20: 65–85.
96.
go back to reference Wright, D.L., and Thom, B.G., 1977. Coastal depositional landforms. Progress in Physical Geography, 1: 412–459. Wright, D.L., and Thom, B.G., 1977. Coastal depositional landforms. Progress in Physical Geography, 1: 412–459.
97.
go back to reference Yinde, T., 1989. A discussion on sediment exchange and transport formation in mudflats and its criterion. Journal of Sediment Research, 1: 1–7. Yinde, T., 1989. A discussion on sediment exchange and transport formation in mudflats and its criterion. Journal of Sediment Research, 1: 1–7.
98.
go back to reference Zenkovich, V.P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. New York: Wiley Interscience. Zenkovich, V.P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. New York: Wiley Interscience.
1.
go back to reference Charlier, R.H. and De Meyer, C.P., 1998. Coastal Erosion: Response and Management: Heidelberg and New York: Springer Verlag. Crescentio, 1607, cited in Franco 1996b. De Mari, 1638, cited in Franco 1996b. Charlier, R.H. and De Meyer, C.P., 1998. Coastal Erosion: Response and Management: Heidelberg and New York: Springer Verlag. Crescentio, 1607, cited in Franco 1996b. De Mari, 1638, cited in Franco 1996b.
2.
go back to reference Franco, L., 1996a. Ancient Mediterranean harbours: a heritage to preserve. Journal of Ocean and Coastal Management, 30(2/3): 115–151. Franco, L., 1996a. Ancient Mediterranean harbours: a heritage to preserve. Journal of Ocean and Coastal Management, 30(2/3): 115–151.
3.
go back to reference Franco, L., 1996b. History of coastal engineering in Italy. In Kraus, N. (ed.), History and Heritage of Coastal Engineering. New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 275–335. Franco, L., 1996b. History of coastal engineering in Italy. In Kraus, N. (ed.), History and Heritage of Coastal Engineering. New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 275–335.
4.
go back to reference Grillo, S., 1989. Venice Sea Defences. Venice: Ed. Arsenale (in Italian). Grillo, S., 1989. Venice Sea Defences. Venice: Ed. Arsenale (in Italian).
5.
go back to reference Oleson, J.P., 1988. The technology of Roman harbors. International Journal of Naval Architecture, 17(2): 147–157. Oleson, J.P., 1988. The technology of Roman harbors. International Journal of Naval Architecture, 17(2): 147–157.
6.
go back to reference Raban, A., 1988. Coastal processes and ancient harbour engineering: Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium Cities on the Sea—Past and Present. B.A.R. International Series, 404: 185–261. Raban, A., 1988. Coastal processes and ancient harbour engineering: Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium Cities on the Sea—Past and Present. B.A.R. International Series, 404: 185–261.
7.
go back to reference Testaguzza, O., 1970. Portus. Rome: Julia (in Italian). Testaguzza, O., 1970. Portus. Rome: Julia (in Italian).
8.
go back to reference Xu, Q., 1993. Brief history of marine development in Ancient China. Abstracts of the Fifth International Congress on the History of Oceanography, p. 58.[full text in Proc. Vth Int. Conf. Hist. Dc. 2002]. Xu, Q., 1993. Brief history of marine development in Ancient China. Abstracts of the Fifth International Congress on the History of Oceanography, p. 58.[full text in Proc. Vth Int. Conf. Hist. Dc. 2002].
1.
go back to reference Bird, E.C.F., 1984. Coasts. An Introduction to Coastal Geomorphology. Oxford: Blackwell. Bird, E.C.F., 1984. Coasts. An Introduction to Coastal Geomorphology. Oxford: Blackwell.
2.
go back to reference Bird, E.C.F., and Schwartz, M.L. (eds.), 1985. The World’s Coastline. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold. Bird, E.C.F., and Schwartz, M.L. (eds.), 1985. The World’s Coastline. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold.
3.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G., 1988. Coastal Environments. London: Academic Press. Carter, R.W.G., 1988. Coastal Environments. London: Academic Press.
4.
go back to reference Carter, R.W.G., and Woodroffe, C.D., 1994. Coastal Evolution. Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. Carter, R.W.G., and Woodroffe, C.D., 1994. Coastal Evolution. Late Quaternary Shoreline Morphodynamics. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
5.
go back to reference Davies, J.L., 1964. A morphogenic approach to world shore-lines. Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie, NF, 8: 127–142. Davies, J.L., 1964. A morphogenic approach to world shore-lines. Zeitschrift für Geomorphologie, NF, 8: 127–142.
6.
go back to reference Davies, J.L., 1972. Geographical Variation in Coastal Development. London: Longman. Davies, J.L., 1972. Geographical Variation in Coastal Development. London: Longman.
7.
go back to reference Fairbridge, R.W. (ed.), 1968. The Encyclopedia of Geomorphology. New York: Reinhold. Fairbridge, R.W. (ed.), 1968. The Encyclopedia of Geomorphology. New York: Reinhold.
8.
go back to reference Kelletat, D., 1995. Atlas of coastal geomorphology and zonality. Journal of Coastal Research, Special issue 13(1): 286. Kelletat, D., 1995. Atlas of coastal geomorphology and zonality. Journal of Coastal Research, Special issue 13(1): 286.
9.
go back to reference Kelletat, D., 1999. Physische Geographie der Meere und Küsten. Stuttgart: Teubner. Kelletat, D., 1999. Physische Geographie der Meere und Küsten. Stuttgart: Teubner.
10.
go back to reference Paskoff, R., 1994. Les littoraux. Impacts des aménagements sur leur évolution. Paris: Masson. Paskoff, R., 1994. Les littoraux. Impacts des aménagements sur leur évolution. Paris: Masson.
11.
go back to reference Pirazzoli, P.A., 1991. World Atlas of Holocene Sea-Level Changes. Elsevier Oceanography Series 58. Amsterdam Pirazzoli, P.A., 1991. World Atlas of Holocene Sea-Level Changes. Elsevier Oceanography Series 58. Amsterdam
12.
go back to reference Valentin, H., 1952. Die Küsten der Erde. Beiträge zur allgemeinen und regionalen Küstenmorphologie. Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen, Ergänzungsheft 246, Gotha. Valentin, H., 1952. Die Küsten der Erde. Beiträge zur allgemeinen und regionalen Küstenmorphologie. Petermanns Geographische Mitteilungen, Ergänzungsheft 246, Gotha.
13.
go back to reference Zenkovich, V.P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. London: Oliver & Boyd. Zenkovich, V.P., 1967. Processes of Coastal Development. London: Oliver & Boyd.
1.
go back to reference Atkinson, T.C., Briffa, K.R., and Coope, G.R., 1987. Seasonal temperatures in Britain during the past 22,000 years reconstructed using beetle remains. Nature, 325: 587–592. Atkinson, T.C., Briffa, K.R., and Coope, G.R., 1987. Seasonal temperatures in Britain during the past 22,000 years reconstructed using beetle remains. Nature, 325: 587–592.
2.
go back to reference Bell, M., and Walker, M.J.C., 1992. Late Quaternary Environmental Change: Physical and Human Perspectives. London: Longman; New York: Wiley. Bell, M., and Walker, M.J.C., 1992. Late Quaternary Environmental Change: Physical and Human Perspectives. London: Longman; New York: Wiley.
3.
go back to reference Berglund, B. (ed.), 1986. Handbook of Holocene Palaeoecology and Palaeohydrology. New York: Wiley. Berglund, B. (ed.), 1986. Handbook of Holocene Palaeoecology and Palaeohydrology. New York: Wiley.
4.
go back to reference Roberts, N., 1998. The Holocene. An Environmental History. Oxford: Blackwell. Roberts, N., 1998. The Holocene. An Environmental History. Oxford: Blackwell.
5.
go back to reference Street-Perrott, F.A., and Roberts, N., 1993. Past climates and future greenhouse warming. In Roberts, N. (ed.), The Changing Global Environment. Oxford: Blackwell. Street-Perrott, F.A., and Roberts, N., 1993. Past climates and future greenhouse warming. In Roberts, N. (ed.), The Changing Global Environment. Oxford: Blackwell.
6.
go back to reference Watson, R.A., and Wright, H.E., Jr., 1980. The end of the Pleistocene: a general critique of chronostratigraphic classification. Boreas, 9: 153–163. Watson, R.A., and Wright, H.E., Jr., 1980. The end of the Pleistocene: a general critique of chronostratigraphic classification. Boreas, 9: 153–163.
7.
go back to reference Wright, H.E., Kutzbach, J.E., Webb, T., Ruddiman, W.F., Street-Perrott, F.A., and Bartlein, P.J. (eds.), 1993. Global Climates for 9000 and 6000 Years Ago. Minneapolis, MN.: University of Minnesota Press. Wright, H.E., Kutzbach, J.E., Webb, T., Ruddiman, W.F., Street-Perrott, F.A., and Bartlein, P.J. (eds.), 1993. Global Climates for 9000 and 6000 Years Ago. Minneapolis, MN.: University of Minnesota Press.
1.
go back to reference Evans, I.S., 1970. Salt crystallization and rock weathering, a review. Revue de Geomorphologie Dynamique, 19: 153–177. Evans, I.S., 1970. Salt crystallization and rock weathering, a review. Revue de Geomorphologie Dynamique, 19: 153–177.
2.
go back to reference Mustoe, G.E., 1981. The origin of honeycomb weathering. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 93: 108–115. Mustoe, G.E., 1981. The origin of honeycomb weathering. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 93: 108–115.
3.
go back to reference Mustoe, G.E., 1982. Cavernous weathering in the Capitol Reef desert, Utah. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 8: 517–526. Mustoe, G.E., 1982. Cavernous weathering in the Capitol Reef desert, Utah. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 8: 517–526.
4.
go back to reference Rodrigeuz-Navarro, C., Doehne, E., and Sebastian, E., 1999. Origins of honeycomb weathering: the role of salts and wind. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 111: 1250–1255. Rodrigeuz-Navarro, C., Doehne, E., and Sebastian, E., 1999. Origins of honeycomb weathering: the role of salts and wind. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 111: 1250–1255.
5.
go back to reference Young, A.R.M., 1987. Salt as an agent in the development of cavernous weathering. Geology, 15: 962–966. Young, A.R.M., 1987. Salt as an agent in the development of cavernous weathering. Geology, 15: 962–966.
1.
go back to reference CERC, 1984. Shore Protection Manual, Volume 1. Coastal Engineering Research Center. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. CERC, 1984. Shore Protection Manual, Volume 1. Coastal Engineering Research Center. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
2.
go back to reference Davis, R.A., 1989. Management of drumstick barrier islands. In Stauble, D.M. (ed.), Barrier Islands: Process and Management. New York: ASCE, Coastal Zone’ 89, pp. 1–16. Davis, R.A., 1989. Management of drumstick barrier islands. In Stauble, D.M. (ed.), Barrier Islands: Process and Management. New York: ASCE, Coastal Zone’ 89, pp. 1–16.
3.
go back to reference Davis, R.A., Jr., and Barnard, P.L., 2000. How anthropogenic factors in the back-barrier area influence tidal inlet stability: examples from the Gulf Coast of Florida, U.S.A. In Pye, K., and Allen, J.R.L. (eds.), Coastal and Estuarine Environments: Sedimentology, Geomorphology, and Geoarchaeology. Geological Society, London, Special Publications 175, pp. 293–303. Davis, R.A., Jr., and Barnard, P.L., 2000. How anthropogenic factors in the back-barrier area influence tidal inlet stability: examples from the Gulf Coast of Florida, U.S.A. In Pye, K., and Allen, J.R.L. (eds.), Coastal and Estuarine Environments: Sedimentology, Geomorphology, and Geoarchaeology. Geological Society, London, Special Publications 175, pp. 293–303.
4.
go back to reference Davis, R.A., Hine, A.C., and Bland, M.J., 1987. Midnight Pass, Florida: inlet instability due to man-related activities in Little Sarasota Bay. New York: ASCE, Coastal Sediments’ 87, pp. 2062–2077. Davis, R.A., Hine, A.C., and Bland, M.J., 1987. Midnight Pass, Florida: inlet instability due to man-related activities in Little Sarasota Bay. New York: ASCE, Coastal Sediments’ 87, pp. 2062–2077.
5.
go back to reference Lynch-Blosse, M.A., and Davis, R.A., 1977. Stability of Dunedin and Hurricane Passes, Pinellas County, Florida. New York: ASCE, Coastal Sediments’ 77, pp. 774–789. Lynch-Blosse, M.A., and Davis, R.A., 1977. Stability of Dunedin and Hurricane Passes, Pinellas County, Florida. New York: ASCE, Coastal Sediments’ 77, pp. 774–789.
6.
go back to reference National Research Council, 1995. Beach Nourishment and Protection. Washington, DC: National Academy Press. National Research Council, 1995. Beach Nourishment and Protection. Washington, DC: National Academy Press.
7.
go back to reference Trembanis, A.C., and Pilkey, O.H., 1998. Summary of beach nourishment along the U.S. Gulf of Mexico shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research, 14: 407–417. Trembanis, A.C., and Pilkey, O.H., 1998. Summary of beach nourishment along the U.S. Gulf of Mexico shoreline. Journal of Coastal Research, 14: 407–417.
1.
go back to reference Baird, A.J., Mason, T.E., and Horn, D.P., 1996. Mechanisms of beach ground water and swash interaction. In Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 4120–4133. Baird, A.J., Mason, T.E., and Horn, D.P., 1996. Mechanisms of beach ground water and swash interaction. In Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 4120–4133.
2.
go back to reference Baird, A.J., Mason, T.E, and Horn, D.P., 1998. Validation of a Boussinesq model of beach ground water behaviour. Marine Geology, 148: 55–69. Baird, A.J., Mason, T.E, and Horn, D.P., 1998. Validation of a Boussinesq model of beach ground water behaviour. Marine Geology, 148: 55–69.
3.
go back to reference Baldock, T.E., and Holmes, P., 1998. Seepage effects on sediment transport by waves and currents. In Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 3601–3614. Baldock, T.E., and Holmes, P., 1998. Seepage effects on sediment transport by waves and currents. In Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 3601–3614.
4.
go back to reference Baldock, T.E., Baird, A.J., Horn, D.P., and Mason, T., 2001. Measurements and modelling of swash-induced pressure gradients in the surface layers of a sand beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 106(C2): 2653–2666. Baldock, T.E., Baird, A.J., Horn, D.P., and Mason, T., 2001. Measurements and modelling of swash-induced pressure gradients in the surface layers of a sand beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 106(C2): 2653–2666.
5.
go back to reference Blewett, J.C., Holmes, P., and Horn, D.P., 1999. Measurement and modeling of swash hydrodynamics. In Proceedings of Coastal Sediments’ 99, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 377–392. Blewett, J.C., Holmes, P., and Horn, D.P., 1999. Measurement and modeling of swash hydrodynamics. In Proceedings of Coastal Sediments’ 99, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 377–392.
6.
go back to reference Freeze, R.A., and, Cherry, J.A., 1979. Groundwater. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall. Freeze, R.A., and, Cherry, J.A., 1979. Groundwater. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice Hall.
7.
go back to reference Grant, U.S., 1946. Effects of groundwater table on beach erosion. Geological Society American Bulletin, 57: 1952 (Abstract). Grant, U.S., 1946. Effects of groundwater table on beach erosion. Geological Society American Bulletin, 57: 1952 (Abstract).
8.
go back to reference Grant, U.S., 1948. Influence of the water table on beach aggradation and degradation. Journal of Marine Research, 7: 655–660. Grant, U.S., 1948. Influence of the water table on beach aggradation and degradation. Journal of Marine Research, 7: 655–660.
9.
go back to reference Horn, D.P., Baldock, T.E., Baird, A.J. and Mason, T., 1998. Field measurements of swash induced pressure gradients within a sandy beach. In Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 2812–2825. Horn, D.P., Baldock, T.E., Baird, A.J. and Mason, T., 1998. Field measurements of swash induced pressure gradients within a sandy beach. In Proceedings of the 26th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 2812–2825.
10.
go back to reference Hughes, M.G., and Turner, I.L., 1999. The beachface. In Short, A.D. (ed.), Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, pp. 119–144. Hughes, M.G., and Turner, I.L., 1999. The beachface. In Short, A.D. (ed.), Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, pp. 119–144.
11.
go back to reference Hughes, M.G., Masselink, G., Hanslow, D., and Mitchell, D., 1997. Towards a better understanding of swash zone sediment transport. In Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics’ 97, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 804–813. Hughes, M.G., Masselink, G., Hanslow, D., and Mitchell, D., 1997. Towards a better understanding of swash zone sediment transport. In Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics’ 97, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 804–813.
12.
go back to reference Li, L., and Barry, D.A., 2000. Wave-induced beach groundwater flow. Advances in Water Resources, 23: 325–337. Li, L., and Barry, D.A., 2000. Wave-induced beach groundwater flow. Advances in Water Resources, 23: 325–337.
13.
go back to reference Li, L., Barry, D.A., and Pattiaratchi, C.B., 1997a. Numerical modeling of tide-induced beach water table fluctuations. Coastal Engineering, 30(1/2): 105–123. Li, L., Barry, D.A., and Pattiaratchi, C.B., 1997a. Numerical modeling of tide-induced beach water table fluctuations. Coastal Engineering, 30(1/2): 105–123.
14.
go back to reference Li, L., Barry, D.A., Parlange, J.-Y., and Pattiaratchi, C.B., 1997b. Beach water table fluctuations due to wave run-up: capillarity effects. Water Resources Research, 33: 935–945. Li, L., Barry, D.A., Parlange, J.-Y., and Pattiaratchi, C.B., 1997b. Beach water table fluctuations due to wave run-up: capillarity effects. Water Resources Research, 33: 935–945.
15.
go back to reference Masselink, G., and Turner, I.L., 1999. The effect of tides on beach morphodynamics. In Short, A.D. (ed.), Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, pp. 204–229. Masselink, G., and Turner, I.L., 1999. The effect of tides on beach morphodynamics. In Short, A.D. (ed.), Handbook of Beach and Shoreface Morphodynamics. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, pp. 204–229.
16.
go back to reference McArdle, S., and McLachlan, A., 1991. Dynamics of the swash zone and effluent line on sandy beaches. Marine Ecology Progress Series, 76: 91–99. McArdle, S., and McLachlan, A., 1991. Dynamics of the swash zone and effluent line on sandy beaches. Marine Ecology Progress Series, 76: 91–99.
17.
go back to reference Nielsen, P., 1990. Tidal dynamics of the water table in beaches. Water Resources Research, 26: 2127–2134. Nielsen, P., 1990. Tidal dynamics of the water table in beaches. Water Resources Research, 26: 2127–2134.
18.
go back to reference Nielsen, P., 1992. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport. Singapore: World Scientific. Nielsen, P., 1992. Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport. Singapore: World Scientific.
19.
go back to reference Nielsen, P., 1997. Coastal groundwater dynamics. In Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics’ 97, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 546–555. Nielsen, P., 1997. Coastal groundwater dynamics. In Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics’ 97, American Society of Civil Engineers, pp. 546–555.
20.
go back to reference Nielsen, P., Davis, G.A., Winterbourne, J.M., and Elias, G., 1988. Wave setup and the water table in sandy beaches. New South Wales Public Works Department, Coastal Branch, Technical Memorandum T.M. 88/1. Nielsen, P., Davis, G.A., Winterbourne, J.M., and Elias, G., 1988. Wave setup and the water table in sandy beaches. New South Wales Public Works Department, Coastal Branch, Technical Memorandum T.M. 88/1.
21.
go back to reference Nielsen, P., Robert, S., Møller-Christiansen, B., and Oliva, P., 2001. Infiltration effects on sediment mobility under waves. Coastal Engineering, 42(2): 105–114. Nielsen, P., Robert, S., Møller-Christiansen, B., and Oliva, P., 2001. Infiltration effects on sediment mobility under waves. Coastal Engineering, 42(2): 105–114.
22.
go back to reference Otvos, E.G., 1999. Rain-induced beach processes; landforms of ground water sapping and surface runoff. Journal of Coastal Research, 15: 1040–1054. Otvos, E.G., 1999. Rain-induced beach processes; landforms of ground water sapping and surface runoff. Journal of Coastal Research, 15: 1040–1054.
23.
go back to reference Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R.T., and Elgar, S., 1999. Tidal watertable fluctuations in a sandy ocean beach. Water Resources Research, 35: 2313–2320. Raubenheimer, B., Guza, R.T., and Elgar, S., 1999. Tidal watertable fluctuations in a sandy ocean beach. Water Resources Research, 35: 2313–2320.
24.
go back to reference Schoones, J.S., and Theron, A.K., 1995. Evaluation of ten cross-shore sediment transport/morphological models. Coastal Engineering, 25: 1–41. Schoones, J.S., and Theron, A.K., 1995. Evaluation of ten cross-shore sediment transport/morphological models. Coastal Engineering, 25: 1–41.
25.
go back to reference Turner, I.L., 1993a. Beach face permeability, the groundwater effluent zone, and intertidal profiles of macro-tidal beaches: a conceptual model. In Thomas, M. (ed.), Catchments and Coasts of Eastern Australia. Department of Geography, University of Sydney Monograph Series 5, pp. 88–99. Turner, I.L., 1993a. Beach face permeability, the groundwater effluent zone, and intertidal profiles of macro-tidal beaches: a conceptual model. In Thomas, M. (ed.), Catchments and Coasts of Eastern Australia. Department of Geography, University of Sydney Monograph Series 5, pp. 88–99.
26.
go back to reference Turner, I.L., 1993b. The total water content of sandy beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 15(Special issue): 11–26. Turner, I.L., 1993b. The total water content of sandy beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, 15(Special issue): 11–26.
27.
go back to reference Turner, I.L., 1993c. Water table outcropping on macro-tidal beaches: a simulation model. Marine Geology, 115: 227–238. Turner, I.L., 1993c. Water table outcropping on macro-tidal beaches: a simulation model. Marine Geology, 115: 227–238.
28.
go back to reference Turner, I.L., 1995. Simulating the influence of groundwater seepage on sediment transported by the sweep of the swash zone across the intertidal profile of macrotidal beaches. Marine Geology, 125: 153–174. Turner, I.L., 1995. Simulating the influence of groundwater seepage on sediment transported by the sweep of the swash zone across the intertidal profile of macrotidal beaches. Marine Geology, 125: 153–174.
29.
go back to reference Turner, I.L., and Nielsen, P., 1997. Rapid watertable fluctuations within the beachface: implications for swash zone sediment mobility? Coastal Engineering, 32: 45–59. Turner, I.L., and Nielsen, P., 1997. Rapid watertable fluctuations within the beachface: implications for swash zone sediment mobility? Coastal Engineering, 32: 45–59.
30.
go back to reference Turner, I.L., and Masselink, G., 1998. Swash infiltration-exfiltration and sediment transport. Journal of Geophysical Research, 103(C13): 30,813–30,824. Turner, I.L., and Masselink, G., 1998. Swash infiltration-exfiltration and sediment transport. Journal of Geophysical Research, 103(C13): 30,813–30,824.
Metadata
Title
H
Authors
Luis J. Moreno
Roger H. Charlier
Marie -Claire P. Chaineux
J. Pat Doody
H. Jesse Walker
Molly McGraw
Dieter Kelletat
Neil Roberts
George Mustoe
Richard A. Davis Jr.
Diane Horn
Copyright Year
2005
Publisher
Springer Netherlands
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/1-4020-3880-1_8