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Über dieses Buch

This second volume in the Palgrave Studies in Practice: Global Fashion Management series focuses on core strategies of branding and communication of European luxury and premium brands. Brand is a critical asset many firms strive to establish, maintain, and grow. It is more so for fashion companies when consumers purchase styles, dreams and symbolic images through a brand. The volume starts with an introductory chapter that epitomizes the essence of fashion brand management with a particular emphasis on emerging branding practices, challenges and trends in the fashion industry. The subsequent five cases demonstrate how a family workshop from a small town can grow into a global luxury or premium brand within a relatively short amount of time. Scholars and practitioners in fashion, retail, branding, and international business will learn how companies can establish a strong brand identity through innovative strategies and management.



1. Brands as Core Assets: Trends and Challenges of Branding in Fashion Business

The importance of brand in the fashion business cannot be overemphasized. This chapter reviews the essence of fashion brand management, discussing the concepts of brand and brand equity, fashion brand development and management, and communication. The fashion brand communication section introduces the use of emergent social media and fashion blogs along with traditional media in the luxury and premium fashion industry. Challenges and trends in branding and communication in the fashion industry are also discussed. The challenges around luxury brands, such as counterfeit goods, commoditization, brand dilution, and brand avoidance are explained with prominent examples. In the subsequent section, trends in branding and communication are detailed: luxury brands’ offering online selling, limited edition, guerrilla marketing, pop-up stores, reinforcing brand equity by offering experiential spaces. Major concepts are explained using examples to help readers understand the larger scope of the topic, which will be instrumental in understanding branding strategies of five European luxury and premium brands cases in this volume.
Byoungho Jin, Elena Cedrola

2. Harmont & Blaine: A Successful Dachshund to Build the Values and Brand Identity

Harmont & Blaine is one of the most dynamic and successful companies in the Italian fashion industry, with about 100 mono-brand stores throughout the world. Born as a small family business in Caivano, a small city in the Naples province, the company has achieved successful competitive performance in less than 10 years despite competing with international fashion giants. The brand enjoys international recognition as being synonymous with top quality casualwear. The company’s philosophy reinterprets the Italian sartorial tradition through creative combinations of different colors, fibers, and patterns, in order to offer a high quality total look solution to its customers. Over the years, Harmont & Blaine has invested various resources in the building of a brand identity consistent with this philosophy. This case explains how the building of a strong brand identity requires the management of visual identity, brand promise, brand personality, and brand communication.
Maria Colurcio, Monia Melia

3. Salvatore Ferragamo: Brand Heritage as Main Vector of Brand Extension and Internationalization

As with many other family businesses that collectively comprise Italy’s economic fabric, Salvatore Ferragamo began as a workshop that soon grew into a global player within its industry, all while maintaining a core spirit of familial entrepreneurship in the form of its organizational structure and identity. Today, the company operates in over 90 countries via its own 33 subsidiaries. The Salvatore Ferragamo Group has pursued a coherent corporate branding strategy over time. Its brand heritage serves as an intrinsic feature of its value proposition and brand positioning, having been cohesively maintained even amid brand extensions and internationalization. Leveraging this heritage, the company has evolved during its 88-year-long history from a single-product company to a multi-category company; from a product-oriented brand to a retail-oriented brand; and from a family business to a publicly owned global business.
Maria Carmela Ostillio, Sarah Ghaddar

4. Tod’s: A Global Multi-Brand Company with a Taste of Tradition

As with many other Italian companies, the Tod’s Group began as a family business and has since evolved into a global fashion player boasting a portfolio of four brands (Tod’s, Hogan, Fay, and Roger Vivier). The group operates in 37 countries and yields a total sales revenue of €965.5 million as of 2014, approximately 70 % of which has been generated from exports. The Tod’s Group adopts a double management approach: (i) a vertical strategic decision-making process in the upstream to ensure the entire group achieves cost and operation efficiency and (ii) a horizontal operating process in the downstream to guarantee a diversified identity of brands in terms of design, marketing, and retail management. The group employs a hybrid branding strategy, wherein the core brand Tod’s utilizes a corporate dominant strategy while the other brands (Fay, Hogan, and Roger Vivier) prefer brand dominant strategies. Tod’s, the group’s core brand, currently leads the group’s global markets, representing approximately 60 % of overall sales in 2014 and 70 % of its stores worldwide. This chapter explains the group’s unique approach to brand communication and commitment to corporate social responsibility, particularly in terms of local communities, the environment, and the welfare of its stakeholders and employees.
Maria Carmela Ostillio, Sarah Ghaddar

5. The Prada Trend: Brand Building at the Intersection of Design, Art, Technology, and Retail Experience

Prada is one of the most successful Italian fashion businesses with unique design aesthetics and provocative counter-mainstream spirit. It is also one of a few companies in the global luxury industry that have chosen to remain independent from mergers with multinational conglomerates, establishing and following its own strategy based on distinction and management coherence. The Prada case is an exemplary depiction of how global recognition of a luxury brand stems from a combination of a constant search for differentiation and shrewd business decisions ensuring efficiency, functionality, and resistance through time. Direct control over retail, well-delineated and uniform brand portfolio with quest for aesthetic and cultural relevance, transcendence of pure commerce to the world of art, technology, architecture, and focus on consumer dialogue through retail experience—all these elements help Prada become one of the most ambitious and trendsetting global luxury brands of modern days.
Stefania Masè, Ksenia Silchenko

6. Louis Vuitton’s Art-Based Strategy to Communicate Exclusivity and Prestige

The recent global luxury industry has transformed from a constellation of small and medium-sized enterprises to a few large luxury conglomerates. This new structure, along with growing foreign markets such as Asia, has caused an increase in sales volumes, resulting in production that is more industrial than handcrafted. These changes decrease exclusiveness for luxury brands, which may lead to commoditization of the luxury brands in consumers’ eyes.
To alleviate this commoditization, many luxury brands work to communicate exclusivity and prestige through strategic arts sponsorships, philanthropic activities, and limited collections in collaboration with artists. These activities binding luxury brands with the art world constitute an art-based strategy named artification. This approach is described via the behavior of luxury brand Louis Vuitton, with a particular focus on the relationship that links the French luxury brand together with the contemporary Japanese artists Takashi Murakami and Yayoi Kusama. Via a qualitative analysis, we identify how these art-based strategies utilize different contact points with the art world, ranging from sponsorships to advertising to product design, in order to communicate an image of exclusiveness and prestige for luxury brands.
Stefania Masè, Elena Cedrola


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