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2009 | Buch

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Transforming Clothing Production into a Demand-driven, Knowledge-based, High-tech Industry

The Leapfrog Paradigm

herausgegeben von: Lutz Walter, George-Alexander Kartsounis, Stefano Carosio

Verlag: Springer London

Enthalten in: Springer Professional "Wirtschaft+Technik" , Springer Professional "Technik" , Springer Professional "Wirtschaft"

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Über dieses Buch

Recent trends in the fashion market (including an impressive increase in the number of new collections, product assortments and variants, and the emerging mass-customization model) dictate the need for a new approach. "Transforming Clothing Production into a Demand-Driven, Knowledge-Based, High-Tech Industry" discusses the ramifications of such an approach, which must lead to a drastic shortening of the whole cycle from conception to production and retail, as well as a shift from a labor-intensive to a technology- and knowledge-intensive clothing manufacturing industry.

"Transforming Clothing Production into a Demand-Driven, Knowledge-Based, High-Tech Industry" is a collection of short papers from prominent researchers involved with the LEAPFROG (Leadership for European Apparel Production From Research along Original Guidelines) initiative. LEAPFROG proposes a revolutionary industrial paradigm based on research results in scientific-technological fields.

Inhaltsverzeichnis

Frontmatter

Chapter 1. Introduction

Abstract

Industrial manufacturing of clothing has over the last two decades become a truly globalised operation enabled by dramatic changes in the global political and economic context in which this industry operates. On the economic side significant changes with impact on clothing-production patterns have occurred both in the industrialised and the developing world. Industrialised countries have witnessed significant changes in the structure of the retail distribution of clothing to the end consumer generally moving towards an increasing concentration of market share in the hands of larger national or international retail chains. In Europe, these trends are most pronounced in Northern and Western Europe where the remaining share of independent stores has dropped mostly below 20% sometimes into single digits. In recent years also Eastern Europe has seen an accelerated trend into that direction (Baker, 2007).

Lutz Walter, Mauro Scalia, Francesco Marchi

Chapter 2. Automated Garment Assembly and Manufacturing Simulation

Abstract

Presently, garment production is extremely personnel dependent and therefore cost intensive. Robotic 3D assembly offers very interesting possibilities and potentials for high-tech and high-quality garment manufacturing with improved quality, cost reduction and fast response to consumer market. The special robotic 3-dimensional (3D) sewing technology, researched and developed by Philipp Moll GmbH & Co, makes it possible for the first time to sew 3D seams automatically. Textile cut parts are placed onto the 3D mould. The special sewing machine is guided by an industrial robot along the spatial seam course similar to welding robots in automobile production. One important aim was the development of an adjustable mould, which can adapt to different sizes and shapes of garments. The concept of the adjustable mould for jackets is a special complex construction consisting of seven separate but also smartly connected columns, which are designed like a human spinal column with separate, moveable vertebras. The LEAPFROG vision, an innovative concept for garment manufacturing, comprises a holistic, general production-line from single-ply cutting, automatic transport to sewing processes with robotic 3D sewing and 2D sewing machines.

Philipp Moll, Ulla Schütte, Kerstin Zöll, Rezia Molfino, Enrico Carca, Matteo Zoppi, Fabio Bonsignorio, Massimo Callegari, Andrea Gabrielli, Marco Principi, Roberto Montorsi, Claus Peter Eberhardt, Franz Engel

Chapter 3. Innovative Textile Materials, Stiffening Procedures and Fabric-Joining Methods

Abstract

The use of shape-memory polymers in textile application is relatively new, because the stringent requirements on mechanical strength and thermal stability of fibres have been so far hard to meet. This section reviews the current state-of-the-art, focusing on the key characteristics of the polymer materials required to produce textile-grade fibres, and the techniques of filament production. An extensive review of literature on this subject is presented, with the results of our own development of shape-memory polyurethane polymers and their fibres for textile applications.

Yan Ji, Mark Schaerlaekens, Eugene M. Terentjev, Ian Jones, Roberto Landò, Stefano Carosio, Tanya Scalia, Riccardo Baglini, Pierandrea Lo Nostro, Alessio Becheri, Luca Giustini, Lucia Rodrigues, Angela Mendes

Chapter 4. Virtual Prototyping: From Concept to 3D Design and Prototyping in Hours

Abstract

The use of 3D computer-aided design (CAD) solutions in the apparel industry is still lagging behind in comparison to other industries (such as, e.g. the automotive). The technological challenges in many aspects are more complex, two of which are more prominent, namely (a) the re-construction of a 3D (threedimensional) human body on a computer system, (b) the 3D simulation of soft materials (simulation of garments made of cloth). The goal of this section is to present a comprehensive methodology for garment design effected directly in 3D, to be used throughout the process of product design and product development. No physical prototypes will be necessary for this process as they will be re-placed by virtual prototypes. The aim is to offer a new approach to reduce the timeconsuming tasks of design and prototyping currently based on 2D CAD systems and physical samples.

Yaron Goldstein, Patrick Robinet, George-Alexander Kartsounis, Florendia-Fourli Kartsouni, Zoi Lentziou, Harris Georgiou, Martin Rupp

Chapter 5. New Quality of Partnership in the Textile World – Concepts and Technologies

Abstract

One core characteristic of the textile and clothing industry (TCI) is networking. The extended smart garment organisation (xSGO) framework will improve the interorganisational knowledge networking in a holistic way. Applying this xSGO framework, a new quality (of) partnership in the textile and clothing value-creation chain will be enabled. The xSGO framework comprises a configuration toolset, which allows modelling of and analyse an existing network for innovation and production, and to select and configure appropriate measures in order to improve the integration of activities and actors. Integrative components enable knowledge communication based on Moda-ML, and involve adapted RFID technologies, combined with a system for product tracing and tracking. In particular fast ramp up of new garment products in supply networks is conceptually and methodically improved. This section gives an overview about the holistic, system-oriented xSGO framework, explains details of quality harmonisation as one major component, and presents results of practical applications in the textile and clothing industry.

Alexander Artschwager, Thomas Fischer, Dieter Stellmach, Ramón Yepes, Michael Weiß, Piero De Sabbata, Nicola Gessa, Gianluca D’Agosta, Matteo Busanelli, Cristiano Novelli, Jens Fabian, Mirko Morgenstern

Chapter 6. Conclusions: Results Achieved, Lessons Learned, Follow-Up Research Work and the Industry’s View on the Way Ahead

Abstract

The preceding chapters intended to provide details about all significant research components of the LEAPFROG project. The authors also tried to demonstrate that all research work had been undertaken on the basis of a sound analysis of preexisting scientific-technological state-of-the-art, industrial capacities, business models, market needs and their expected future trends as well as human factors such as available skills and qualifications or management procedures and cultures. Finally it should have emerged that despite their great scientific and technological diversity all four major research modules of the project fit into a holistic reengineering framework reflecting the real complexities and interdependencies of the different manufacturing stages and business processes along the textile-clothing value chain, in the sense of a true integrated industrial innovation concept.

George-Alexander Kartsounis, Dieter Stellmach, Lutz Walter

Backmatter

Titel: Transforming Clothing Production into a Demand-driven, Knowledge-based, High-tech Industry
herausgegeben von: Lutz Walter
George-Alexander Kartsounis
Stefano Carosio
Verlag: Springer London
Electronic ISBN: 978-1-84882-608-3
Print ISBN: 978-1-84882-607-6
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-84882-608-3

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