A Structure for Classification and Comparative Study of Jewellery Forms

Indian jewellery has a character of its own. It is rich in form and crafted in intricate details. Motifs often identifiable by their individual names are the fundamental building blocks. They are used in combination with each other to make a form cluster. These form clusters are repetitive and appear throughout the body of jewellery as a coherent theme. Complex Structures in gold, forms created using these motifs, are numerous and are made in a variety of ways. They track construction details to conform to body contours, for best presentation view they are often worn on a junction such as neck or wrist. An article therefore, is best understood in form with reference to anthropometric dimensions used as an underlying framework. The articles specifically chosen for study are neckpieces, as they are the largest in size and central part of a particular set. They are directly in line of sight for visual appreciation and therefore gain further importance as lead pieces in jewellery design. This study expounds on diverse types of forms and their characteristic features. A structure is presented by a comparative study that is expected to provide orientation, define key aspects of form and parameters. Outcome of this study is for benefit of jewellers as well as clients by better articulation of jewellery forms and thereby clear understanding of clients’ expectations.