Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry

Frontmatter

1. Raw materials

Abstract

A wide range of chemical and natural materials is used in the formulation of cosmetic and toiletry preparations. It is outside the scope of this book to give a complete overview, therefore only those materials of primary importance will be stressed. This chapter deals with the basic raw materials for the production of hair-, skin-and oral-care products. It does not include special additives such as herbal extracts, nor raw materials, such as pigments, for decorative cosmetics. An overview of herbal extracts is given by Nowak [1].

E. Spiess

2. Hair-care products

Abstract

Before discussing product formulation, some general remarks about product development are appropriate.

J. J. Shipp

3. Skin-care products

Abstract

The technology of skin care is broad and differs from many other cosmetic categories because of the functional nature of many of the products. There are products that primarily have cosmetic effects and products that have very significant pharmacological effects. All products, however, are designed to interact and treat the largest organ of the body—the skin. To understand the need for the category, one must understand the business. The skin-care business is very large worldwide, with total sales of over 10 billion dollars divided between mass and prestige distribution. Mass is roughly 60% and prestige roughly 40%. The largest markets are Japan, at 3.5 billion dollars, the US at 2.5 billion dollars, and western Europe at 3 billion dollars.

W. H. Schmitt

4. Color cosmetics

Abstract

The primary reason a pigmented product is purchased is for the color it imparts. Other beneficial characteristics will be appreciated by the consumer, but short of total discomfort, these will be sacrificed if the color is ‘just right’. This color selection will be based on the purchaser’s general complexion, and on what he or she perceives as making him or her look attractive, much the same criteria that dictate the purchase of clothing and other fashion accessories. In a nutshell, then, when speaking of colored cosmetics, it is fashion first and science second.

J. Cunningham

5. Baby care

Abstract

Baby cosmetics and toiletries, intended for use on new-born babies and children of up to five years old, represent a very special category indeed. They are invariably functional, rather than decorative, mainly concerned with keeping the baby or child clean, comfortable and healthy. Since babies and young children are somewhat more vulnerable than their adult counterparts, baby products must be carefully formulated to be extremely mild and gentle to skin and hair. These considerations impose a number of requirements and constraints for the design, evaluation and manufacture of baby-care products. Any person working in the area of baby care must understand these issues and adhere to them accordingly.

J. Knowlton

6. Ethnic products

Abstract

The development of products specifically designed for ethnic users is a relatively recent consideration and must take account of the different characteristics of the skin and hair of people of ethnic origin. As a background, therefore, it is essential to understand these differences.

J. L. Chester

7. Dental products

Abstract

Modern products for self-applied oral hygiene have their origins in similar products used centuries ago. The basic concepts, although refined and extended to improve effectiveness, have not changed radically, but have been made more attractive to encourage compliance with use. Such products range from mechanical devices to combinations of ingredients with specific functional properties, and have performance attributes ranging from cosmetic to therapeutic.

M. Pader

8. Perfumery

Abstract

The object of this chapter is to give the reader an overview of the subject of perfumery. It will cover the role of fragrance, the raw materials used, and the creative approach and construction (including technical constraints, quality aspects, and health and safety). Fragrance briefing, current trends and issues, and a short glossary of perfumery descriptors are included. A brief description of some other special additives used in perfumery, or closely related to perfumery materials, is given.

A. Dallimore

9. Personal hygiene products

Abstract

The basic concept of personal hygiene is a relatively recent phenomena and, throughout history, mankind has probably been far more concerned about external appearance rather than about the general condition of the body. This chapter will consider current trends in personal hygiene products with some reference to the historical background.

M. J. Willcox

10. Quality, safety and legislation

Abstract

It is likely that readers of this book would expect a chapter on quality to discuss various analytical techniques (biological, chemical, mathematical, microbiological, physical, etc.) that are in common use in laboratories today. Twenty years ago that would probably have been acceptable. However, in the last two decades, ideas about quality have changed so much that it is more prudent to advise the reader of the latest philosophy, and of how it developed.

J. Dupuis, W. Dupuy

Backmatter