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2023 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

1. Introduction: I Will Not Be the Last

verfasst von : Emily L. Newman

Erschienen in: Fashioning Politics and Protests

Verlag: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

The suffragist parade in 1913 on the eve of President Wilson’s inauguration was marred by violence, but that was not going to stop the movement. Rather, this unifying gathering was one of the first visible campaigns by women who were no longer satisfied without having their voices heard in the U.S. government. The American suffragists, the first-wave feminists, wore sashes in purple, gold, and white on top of brilliant white dresses. It becomes clear that the suffragists set the stage for feminists to embrace identifying markers and signifiers connected to fashion, all of which correspond to the changing nature of feminism, as exemplified by the developments of second-, third-, and forth-wave feminism. Beginning with Kamala Harris’ memorable white suit on her way to the vice-presidency, this chapter then explores the suffragists’ choices and significance while ending with the important work of Jeanine Michna-Bales and her recreation of Inez Milholland’s final campaign for the vote before her untimely death. This chapter sets the stage for the rest of this book, while connecting the threads of early feminists to contemporary intersectional practices which lay the groundwork for the following chapters.

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Fußnoten
1
Qtd in Vanessa Friedman, “Kamala Harris in a White Suit, Dressing for History,” The New York Times, November 8, 2020. https://​www.​nytimes.​com/​2020/​11/​08/​fashion/​kamala-harris-speech-suffrage.​html.
 
2
Friedman, “Kamala Harris in a White Suit.”
 
3
The British were first to be called suffragettes. The -ette suffix at the end of the word feminized the word but was also used to connect them to their diminutive stature, allowing critics to demean the women when they used the term. While most British women embraced the term, wanting to upend its negative connotations, the Americans felt it was too derisive. The Americans preferred the gender-neutral suffragists, though people who worked against women’s suffrage would use the term suffragette in America to belittle the suffragists. See “Did You Know? Suffragist vs Suffragette” National Park Service, September 1, 2020. https://​www.​nps.​gov/​articles/​suffragistvssuff​ragette.​htm; see also this article and its accompanying sources, Alice Janigro, “Suffragists or Suffragettes,” Suffrage 100 MA, 2022, https://​suffrage100ma.​org/​resources/​did-you-know-resources/​suffragists-or-suffragettes/​.
 
4
Friedman, “Kamala Harris in a White Suit”; Oscar Holland, “Why Kamala Harris’ White Suit Speaks Volumes,” CNN.​com, November 9, 2020. https://​www.​cnn.​com/​style/​article/​kamala-harris-white-suit/​index.​html; Darcy Schild, “Kamala Harris Made a Statement by Wearing Head-to-Toe White in a Powerful Suit Silhouette for Her Victory Speech,” Insider.com, November 8, 2020. https://​www.​insider.​com/​kamala-harris-white-suit-style-statement-2020-11; and, among others, Eliza Huber, “Every Single Piece of Kamala Harris’ Acceptance Speech Outfit Was Significant,” Refinery29, November 9, 2020.
 
5
Kamala Harris, “Victory Speech upon Becoming Vice President-Elect”, Chase Center, Wilmington, Delaware, November 7, 2020.
 
6
Djurdja Bartlett, “Can Fashion Be Defended?” In Fashion and Politics, edited by Djurdja Bartlett (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2019), 28.
 
7
For a full and detailed discussion of the arts and the suffragettes in the UK, see Lisa Tickner, The Spectacle of Women: Imagery of the Suffrage Campaign 1907–1914 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1988).
 
8
Liz McQuiston, ed. Suffrage to She-Devils: Women’s Liberation and Beyond (New York: Phaidon Press, 1997), 60.
 
9
Helena Reckitt, ed. Art of Feminism: Images that Shaped the Fight for Equality, 1857–2017 (San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2018), 41.
 
10
Johanna Neuman, Gilded Suffragists: The New York Socialites Who Fought for the Women’s Right to Vote (New York: New York University Press, 2017), 116.
 
11
Winifred Conkling, Votes for Women! American Suffragists and the Battle for the Ballot (Chapel Hill, NC: Algonquin Young Readers, 2018), 181.
 
12
Conkling, Votes for Women!, 189–190.
 
13
Qtd. in Reckitt, ed. Art of Feminism, 41.
 
14
Einav Rabinovitch-Fox, Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism (Champaign, IL: University of Illinois Press, 2021), 66.
 
15
Reckitt, ed. Art of Feminism, 41.
 
16
For more information on Black suffragists, on whom the research has increased dramatically in the past five years, see Martha S. Jones, Vanguard: How Black Women Broke Barriers, Won the Vote, and Insisted on Equality for All (New York: Basic Books, 2020); Conkling, Votes for Women!, 194–198; Alison M. Parker, Unceasing Militant: The Life of Mary Church Terrell (Chapel Hill, NC: The University of North Carolina Press, 2020); Michelle Duster, Ida B. the Queen (New York: Atria/One Signal Publishers, 2021); and Diana Ramey Berry and Kali Nicole Gross, A Black Women’s History of the United States (Boston, MA: Beacon Press, 2020).
 
17
Rabinovitch-Fox, Dressed for Freedom, 69.
 
18
Qtd. in Neuman, Gilded Suffragists, 63.
 
19
Neuman, Gilded Suffragists, 116.
 
20
Neuman, Gilded Suffragists, 116–117.
 
21
Neuman, Gilded Suffragists, 155.
 
22
Neuman, Gilded Suffragists, 155.
 
23
Linda J. Lumsden, Inez: The Life and Times of Inez Milholland (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2016), 82.
 
24
Rabinovitch-Fox, Dressed for Freedom, 48.
 
25
Milholland’s background and summary about her life are drawn from Lumsden, Inez.
 
26
Lumsden in Jeanine Michna-Bales, Standing Together: Inez Milholland’s Final Campaign for Women’s Suffrage (New York: MW Editions, 2021).
 
27
Rabinovitch-Fox, Dressed for Freedom, 52.
 
28
Rabinovitch-Fox, Dressed for Freedom, 52.
 
29
For a more detailed account of the parade, see Rebecca Boggs Roberts, Suffragists in Washington, D.C.: The 1913 Parade and the Fight for the Vote (Charleston, SC: The History Press, 2017).
 
30
Kate Clarke Lemay, “Compelling Tactics, 1913–1916,” in Votes for Women! A Portrait of Persistence, edited by Kate Clarke Lemay (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2019), 169.
 
31
Lumsden, Inez, 84.
 
32
Rabinovitch-Fox, Dressed for Freedom, 56.
 
33
Neuman, Gilded Suffragists, 121.
 
34
Lumsden, Inez, 4.
 
35
Lumsden, Inez, 150.
 
36
Lumsden, Inez, 23.
 
37
Her whole series, including an essay by Lumsden as well as herself, is featured in the monograph Michna-Bales, Standing Together.
 
38
Michna-Bales, Standing Together, 213.
 
39
Michna-Bales, Standing Together, 24.
 
40
Amy Crawford, “Recreating a Suffragist’s Campaign Through the American West,” Smithsonian Magazine, July 2020, https://​www.​smithsonianmag.​com/​history/​recreating-inez-milholland-boissevain-barnstorming-tour-american-west-180975173/​.
 
41
Crawford, “Recreating a Suffragist’s Campaign Through the American West.” Crawford here quotes one of Milholland’s letters to her husband, Eugen Boissevain, who was in New York City. She was describing a route to Oregon.
 
42
Michna-Bales, Standing Together, 24.
 
43
Qtd. in Lumsden, Inez, 177.
 
44
Miranda Garrett and Zoë Thomas, “Introduction,” in Suffrage and the Arts: Visual Culture, Politics and Enterprise, edited by Miranda Garrett and Zoë Thomas (London: Bloomsbury, 2020).
 
45
Kimberlé Williams Crenshaw, “Mapping the Margins: Intersectionality, Identity Politics, and Violence against Women of Color,” Stanford Law Review 43, no. 6 (July 1991), 1242. Crenshaw is one of the leading advocates and authors of critical race theory, and her ideas are still leading the way in feminist discussions. While discussing her work, Anna Carasthathis explores recent explorations of intersectionality while striving to return its ideas to its roots with Williams’ work. For more, see Anna Carasthathis, Intersectionality: Origins, Contestations, Horizons (Lincoln, NE: University of Nebraska Press, 2019).
 
46
Patricia Hill Collins, Black Feminist Thought: Knowledge, Consciousness, and the Politics of Empowerment (New York: Routledge, 2008), 21.
 
47
Beth Hinderlinter and Noelle Chaddock, “A Rejection of White Feminist Cisgender Allyship: Centering Intersectionality,” Antagonizing White Feminism: Intersectionality’s Critique of Women’s Studies and the Academy, edited by Noelle Chaddock and Beth Hinderlinter, (Lanham, MD: Lexington Books, 2020), 137–145.
 
Metadaten
Titel
Introduction: I Will Not Be the Last
verfasst von
Emily L. Newman
Copyright-Jahr
2023
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-16227-5_1