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2023 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

2. Redress the Red Dress

verfasst von : Emily L. Newman

Erschienen in: Fashioning Politics and Protests

Verlag: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

A simple red dress can have numerous functions. In the strikingness of the color, certain fashion designers used red as their signature color or to make powerful statements. More specifically, fans of Margaret Atwood’s novel The Handmaid’s Tale (now an influential television show by Hulu) know the power of the red uniform that the handmaids wear. These women were forced to have sex with powerful men, with the goal of procreating and helping the struggling population. Yet, a handmaid known as June defies the rules and leads a mutiny, one that Americans have started mimicking in protests in real life. Donning the red dress and white-winged bonnet, women protest their shrinking rights over their own bodily autonomy, which includes access to abortion and healthcare. While these dresses appear in DC and across the country, red dresses are also appearing on and standing in for Indigenous women across Canada and the United States. Jamie Black began using red dresses to symbolize the many Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women, Girls, and Two-Spirits (MMIWG2S), hanging the dresses in trees and in installations, working to create awareness for the women whose lives have been lost and forgotten by all but their families and close friends. The striking vision of red combined with these strong political beliefs and symbolic powers allows these often-straightforward dresses to challenge the beliefs of everyday people and key political figures everywhere. Especially for the families of MMIWG2S, this can help them process their grief but also push for more resolution regarding the crimes that had been committed against loved ones.

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Fußnoten
1
For just a few examples, see Patrick Parrinder, “Making Poison,” The London Review of Books 8, no. 5 (March 20, 1986), https://​www.​lrb.​co.​uk/​the-paper/​v08/​n05/​patrick-parrinder/​making-poison; and Mary McCarthy, “Book Review: The Handmaid’s Tale,” The New York Times, February 9, 1986, https://​archive.​nytimes.​com/​www.​nytimes.​com/​books/​00/​03/​26/​specials/​mccarthy-atwood.​html; Sophie Gilbert, “The Visceral, Woman-Centric Horror of The Handmaid’s Tale,” The Atlantic, April 25, 2017, https://​www.​theatlantic.​com/​entertainment/​archive/​2017/​04/​the-visceral-woman-centric-horror-of-the-handmaids-tale/​523683/​; and Emily Nussbaum, “A Cunning Adaptation of ‘The Handmaid’s Tale,’” The New Yorker, May 15, 2017, https://​www.​newyorker.​com/​magazine/​2017/​05/​22/​a-cunning-adaptation-of-the-handmaids-tale.
 
2
The book does not directly name the narrator, though readers have often assumed that her name was June due to a clue presented in the novel. The show names her June from the very beginning, and for ease and clarity, I will follow suit. In situations where June is dealing with her Commander and his wife, the aunts, or any authority figures, she is called Offred (essentially, Of Fred, after her Commander’s first name). I will, however, stick to June throughout this chapter for continuity.
 
3
Margaret Atwood, “Margaret Atwood on What ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’ Means in the Age of Trump,” The New York Times, March 10, 2017, https://​www.​nytimes.​com/​2017/​03/​10/​books/​review/​margaret-atwood-handmaids-tale-age-of-trump.​html.
 
4
Margaret Atwood, The Handmaid’s Tale (1986; reis., New York: Anchor Press, 2017), 8.
 
5
Atwood, The Handmaid’s Tale, 9.
 
6
Qtd in E. Alex Jung, “From the Handmaids to the Marthas, How Each Handmaid’s Tale Costume Came Together,” Vulture, April 28, 2017, https://​www.​vulture.​com/​2017/​04/​handmaids-tale-costumes-how-they-came-together.​html.
 
7
The Handmaid’s Tale, “A Woman’s Place,” Hulu video, Season 1, Episode 6.
 
8
The Handmaid’s Tale, “The Night,” Hulu video, Season 1, Episode 10.
 
9
Atwood, “Margaret Atwood on What ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’ Means.”
 
10
The Handmaid’s Tale, “Sacrifice,” Hulu video, Season 3, Episode 12.
 
11
Qtd. in Jung, “From the Handmaids to the Marthas.”
 
12
Hilary Elizabeth, “Handmaid’s Tale: 10 Hidden Details About the Costumes You Didn’t Notice,” ScreenRant, August 25, 2019, https://​screenrant.​com/​handmaids-tale-costume-details-trivia/​.
 
13
The Handmaid’s Tale, “Unfit,” Hulu video, Season 3, Episode 8.
 
14
The Handmaid’s Tale, “Other Women,” Hulu video, Season 2, Episode 4.
 
15
Atwood, “Margaret Atwood on What ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’ Means.”
 
16
Emma Brown, Jon Swaine, and Michelle Boorstein, “Amy Coney Barrett served as a ‘handmaid’ in Christian group People of Praise” The Washington Post, October 6, 2020, https://​www.​washingtonpost.​com/​investigations/​amy-coney-barrett-people-of-praise/​2020/​10/​06/​5f497d8c-0781-11eb-859b-f9c27abe638d_​story.​html.
 
17
Carrie N. Baker, “#RuthSentUs: Red Cloak National Protest Against Amy Coney Barrett Confirmation,” Ms., October 26, 2020. https://​msmagazine.​com/​2020/​10/​26/​ruth-sent-us-red-cloak-national-protest-against-amy-coney-barrett-confirmation/​.
 
18
Rebecca Speare-Cole, “People Across U.S. Wear ‘Handmaid’s Tale’ Cloaks to Protest Amy Coney Barrett’s Supreme Court Nomination,” Newsweek, October 26, 2020, https://​www.​newsweek.​com/​handmaids-tale-cloaks-protest-amy-coney-barrett-supreme-court-nomination-1542118.
 
19
Tracey E. Gilchrist, “Handmaid’s Tale Protesters Silently Resist Brett Kavanaugh for SCOTUS,” Advocate, September 4, 2018, https://​www.​advocate.​com/​politics/​2018/​9/​04/​handmaids-tale-protesters-silently-resist-brett-kavanaugh-scotus.
 
20
James Poniewozik, “Review: ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’ Creates a Chilling Man’s World,” The New York Times, April 24, 2017, https://​www.​nytimes.​com/​2017/​04/​24/​arts/​television/​review-the-handmaids-tale-creates-a-chilling-mans-world.​html.
 
21
Gilbert, “The Visceral, Woman-Centric.”
 
22
Discussed and quoted in, Alaa Elassar and Nadeem Muaddi, “Retailer drops sexy ‘Handmaid’s Tale’ costume following outcry,” CNN, September 21, 2018, https://​www.​cnn.​com/​2018/​09/​21/​us/​Handmaids-tale-halloween-costume-trnd/​index.​html.
 
23
Poniewozik, “Review: ‘The Handmaid’s Tale’ Creates a Chilling Man’s World.”
 
24
Pantone Color Institute, “The Creation of Period: Creating a Red Hue to Break Down the Stigma Surrounding Menstruation,” September 30, 2020, https://​www.​pantone.​com/​articles/​case-studies/​the-creation-of-period.
 
25
Sarah Rose Sharp, “Pantone’s Latest Shade? ‘Period’ Red,” Hyperallergic, September 30, 2020. https://​hyperallergic.​com/​591554/​pantone-intimina-period-red/​.
 
26
Valentina Di Liscia, “Artist-Activist Group Criticizes Pantone’s ‘Period Red,’” Hyperallergic, October 26, 2020. https://​hyperallergic.​com/​596910/​artist-activist-group-criticizes-pantones-period-red/​.
 
27
Berkeley Kaite ed., Menstruation Now: What Does Blood Perform? (Ontario, Canada: Demeter Press, 2019), 8.
 
28
For more information on this, see Kaite ed., Menstruation Now; Chris Bobel, New Blood: Third Wave Feminism and the Politics of Menstruation (New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 2010); and Breanne Fahs, Out for Blood: Essays on Menstruation and Resistance (Albany, NY: SUNY Press, 2016); and Lauren Rosewarne, Periods in Pop Culture (Lanham, MD: Lexington Books, 2012).
 
29
Kassia St. Clair, The Secret Lives of Color. (New York: Penguin Books, 2018), 138–141.
 
30
St. Clair, 138–139.
 
31
St. Clair, 134–155.
 
32
Michel Pastoureau, Red: The History of a Color, trans. by Jody Gladding (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2017), 14–17. For an incredibly thorough dissection of the history of this color over time, his book is an excellent resource.
 
33
Pastoureau, 140–193.
 
34
In a famous example of this, successful golfer Tiger Woods is known for wearing red power shirts on the fourth and final day of his golf tournaments. He has worn the color since 1996, before he was a professional and started when he played junior golf. Later, his preference for red conveniently aligned with his college choice, Stanford, who also wore red on their last tournament days. Explaining his choice, he has said that “I wear red on Sundays because my mom thinks that that’s my power color, and you know you should always listen to your mom.” For more, see Brent Kelley, “The Real Reason Tiger Woods Wears Red Shirts in Final Rounds,” liveabout.​com, October 5, 2018, https://​www.​liveabout.​com/​tiger-woods-red-shirt-1566398; and Ganit Singh, “The Red Shirt Phenomena,” 36 Chapters, October 14, 2021, https://​36chapters.​com/​the-red-shirt-phenomena-bf9bd76dd2e5.
 
35
American Heart Association, Go Red for Women, https://​www.​goredforwomen.​org/​en/​; and AHA/ASA Journals, “AHA Journals Go Red For Women® Collection,” https://​www.​ahajournals.​org/​go-red.
 
36
Kellie Ell, “The Stars Were Seeing Red at Annual Red Dress Collection,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 6, 2020, https://​wwd.​com/​eye/​people/​red-dress-collection-fashion-show-feb-1203465781/​.
 
37
Pamela Golbin, Valentino: Themes and Variations (New York, Rizzoli, 2018), 123.
 
38
Golbin, Valentino, 233.
 
39
Golbin, Valentino, 235.
 
40
Sarah Mower, “Valentino Spring 2008 Couture,” Vogue Runway, January 22, 2008, https://​www.​vogue.​com/​fashion-shows/​spring-2008-couture/​valentino.
 
41
Qtd. in Darla-Jane Gilroy, Little Book of Christian Louboutin: The Story of the Iconic Shoe Designer (London: Welbeck Publishing Group, 2021), 43.
 
42
Gilroy, 44.
 
43
Gilroy, 44.
 
44
Prabal Gurung, Prabal Gurung: Style and Beauty with a Bite (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2019), 24.
 
45
Marcia R. Liberman, “The Artistry of the Newars,” New York Times, April 9, 1995.
 
46
Gurung, Gurung, 177.
 
47
Gurung, Gurung, 20.
 
48
Gurung, Gurung, 226.
 
49
A paillette is a type of glittery, metal ornament or a spangle, often attached to clothing. Gurung, Gurung, 226.
 
50
Gurung, Gurung, 226.
 
51
Gurung, Gurung, 242.
 
52
Christian Allaire, “How Red Dresses Became a Symbol for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women,” Vogue, April 7, 2021, https://​www.​vogue.​com/​article/​jaime-black-red-dress-project-missing-murdered-indigenous-women.
 
53
Cassandra Szklarski, “Vancouver Indigenous Fashion Week Showcases Clothing Design with ‘Higher Purpose,’” CBC, November 18, 2019, https://​www.​cbc.​ca/​news/​canada/​british-columbia/​vancouver-indigenous-fashion-week-1.​5363076.
 
55
Qtd. in Christian Allaire, “How Red Dresses Became a Symbol for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women.” Vogue, April 7, 2021, https://​www.​vogue.​com/​article/​jaime-black-red-dress-project-missing-murdered-indigenous-women.
 
56
Alexis Greene, “Theatre Against Violence Against Women,” American Theatre, December 10, 2014, https://​www.​americantheatre.​org/​2014/​12/​10/​theatre-against-violence-against-women/​.
 
57
“The REDress Project at the National Museum of the American Indian,” Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian, April 8, 2020, video, 2:38, https://​www.​youtube.​com/​watch?​time_​continue=​157&​v=​lH7FuxzrFvs&​feature=​emb_​logo.
 
58
Anna Maria Tremonti, “’I understood… because I was one of them.’ Sheila North Wilson on Creating #MMIW.” Current (Winnipeg), December 8, 2016, https://​www.​cbc.​ca/​radio/​thecurrent/​the-current-for-december-7-2016-mmiw-winnipeg-public-forum-1.​3883544/​i-understood-because-i-was-one-of-them-sheila-north-wilson-on-creating-mmiw-1.​3883730.
 
59
“Murdered & Missing Indigenous Women,” Native Women’s Wilderness, https://​www.​nativewomenswild​erness.​org/​mmiw#:​~:​text=​Red%20​is%20​the%20​official%20​color,can%20lay%20them%20to%20rest. This organization provides resources for all Indigenous women throughout North America.
 
60
Due to COVID precautions, the handprints now appear on masks instead of the face.
 
61
Rhiannon Johnson, “Widespread Use of Red Handprints to Represent MMIWG Sparks Debate Among Advocates.” CBC News, March 9, 2020, https://​www.​cbc.​ca/​news/​indigenous/​red-handprints-mmiwg-1.​5483955.
 
62
Jennifer Mulson, “New Colorado Springs Mural Addresses Plight of Indigenous Community,” Pikes Peak Courier, July 29, 2020, https://​gazette.​com/​pikespeakcourier​/​new-colorado-springs-mural-addresses-plight-of-indigenous-community/​article_​16a862c4-cdf1-11ea-932a-db547b548396.​html.
 
63
“Sing Our Rivers Red,” The Dairy Arts Center, curated by Danielle SeeWalker and JayCee Beyale, May–October 2021, https://​thedairy.​org/​sing-our-rivers-red/​.
 
64
Denise Zubizarreta, “Colorado Artists and Activists Unite to Advocate for Missing and Murdered Indigenous People,” Hyperallergic, October 5, 2022, https://​hyperallergic.​com/​762163/​colorado-artists-and-activists-unite-to-advocate-for-missing-and-murdered-indigenous-people/​.
 
65
Sing Our Rivers Red.
 
66
“MMIWG2S,” Coalition to Stop Violence Against Native Women, 2022, https://​www.​csvanw.​org/​mmiw.
 
67
“Murdered & Missing Indigenous Women,” Native Women’s Wilderness, https://​www.​nativewomenswild​erness.​org/​mmiw#:​~:​text=​Red%20​is%20​the%20​official%20​color,can%20lay%20them%20to%20rest.
 
68
“Missing and murdered Indigenous women and girls: Understanding the numbers,” Amnesty International, January 29, 2021, https://​www.​amnesty.​ca/​blog/​missing-and-murdered-indigenous-women-and-girls-understanding-the-numbers/​.
 
69
“MMIWG: Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls and Ending Violence,” Assembly of First Nations, https://​www.​afn.​ca/​policy-sectors/​mmiwg-end-violence/​.
 
70
A note on terminology: I will refer to Indigenous people, as way of encompassing the large groups of tribes including First Peoples, First Nations, Métis, and Inuit peoples who inhabit North America. Both Aboriginal and Indian are terms constructed and utilized by the government and various institutions, and while they are still in use, many Indigenous people do not prefer the ways that the terms are forced upon them. When possible, I will be as specific as possible with respect to particular nations and/or backgrounds. I am following the lead of Allison Hargreaves, Violence against Indigenous Women: Literature, Activism, Resistance. (Ontario, Canada: Wilfrid Laurier University Press, 2017) 4–5; and incorporating wisdom from D. Memee Lavell-Harvard and Jennifer Brant, eds, Forever Loved: Exposing the Hidden Crisis of Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls in Canada. (Ontario, Canada: Demeter Press, 2016).
 
71
Robyn Bourgeois “Perpetual State of Violence: An Indigenous Feminist Anti-Oppression Inquiry into Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls” in Joyce Green, ed. Making Space for Indigenous Feminism. 2nd Edition. (Nova Scotia, Canada: Fernwood Publishing, 2017) 261.
 
72
Anita Olsen Harper, “Sisters in Spirit” in Forever Loved, 83–84; and Hargreaves, Violence against Indigenous Women, 1–7.
 
73
Lavell-Harvard and Brant, Forever in Love, 3.
 
74
Lavell-Harvard and Brant, Forever in Love, 4.
 
75
For a full and more elaborate timeline of the horrific events Indigenous women faced, see Wendee Kubik and Carrie Bourassa, “Stole Sisters: The Politics, Policies, and Travesty of Missing and Murdered Women in Canada,” in Forever Loved, 17–33.
 
76
The full report can be accessed here: National Inquiry into Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women and Girls, “Reclaiming Power and Place” https://​www.​mmiwg-ffada.​ca/​final-report/​.
 
77
U.S. Department of the Interior, “Secretary Haaland Creates New Missing & Murdered Unit to Pursue Justice for Missing or Murdered American Indians and Alaska Natives,” DOI News, April 1, 2021, https://​www.​doi.​gov/​news/​secretary-haaland-creates-new-missing-murdered-unit-pursue-justice-missing-or-murdered-american.
 
78
Walking with Our Sisters, “Moccasin ‘Vamps,’” Walking with Our Sisters, 2020, http://​walkingwithoursi​sters.​ca/​artwork/​moccasin-vamps/​page/​13/​.
 
79
Christi Belcort, “Prologue,” in Anderson, Kim, Maria Campbell, and Christi Belcourt, eds, Keetsahnak: Our Missing and Murdered Indigenous Sisters (Edmonton, Canada: University of Alberta Press, 2018), xii–xiii. This book documents the history of this project, as well as provides commentary on broader discussions and themes related to MMIWG2S.
 
80
Hargreaves, Violence against Indigenous Women, 16–17.
 
81
Merritt Herald, “Red Dress day in effect for missing Indigenous women.” Merritt Herald. May 5, 2020, https://​www.​merrittherald.​com/​red-dress-day-in-effect-for-missing-indigenous-women/​.
 
82
For more see Jess Baines, Prue Stevenson, Susan Mackie, and Anne Robinson, See Red Women’s Workshop: Feminist Posters, 1974–1990. (London: Four Corners Books, 2016).
 
Metadaten
Titel
Redress the Red Dress
verfasst von
Emily L. Newman
Copyright-Jahr
2023
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-16227-5_2