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Erschienen in:
Modeling Surface Waves Over Highly Variable Topographies Kapitel lesen Erstes Kapitel lesen

2019 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

Nonlinear Wave Interaction in Coastal and Open Seas: Deterministic and Stochastic Theory

verfasst von : Raphael Stuhlmeier, Teodor Vrecica, Yaron Toledo

Erschienen in: Nonlinear Water Waves

Verlag: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model situations of interest, such as the mild slope and modified mild slope equations, the Zakharov equation, or the nonlinear Schrödinger equation. These deterministic equations yield accompanying stochastic equations for averaged quantities of the sea-state, like the spectrum or bispectrum. We discuss several of these in depth, touching on recent results about the stability of open ocean spectra to inhomogeneous disturbances, as well as new stochastic equations for the nearshore.

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Vorheriges Kapitel On Recent Numerical Methods for Steady Periodic Water Waves
Nächstes Kapitel Gravity-Capillary and Flexural-Gravity Solitary Waves
Fußnoten
1
However, the ω i satisfy the dispersion relation of the NLS rather than the linear deep-water dispersion relation in (3.3).
 
2
“Over 2000 wave spectra were measured; about […] 121 corresponded to “ideal” stationary and homogeneous wind conditions.” p. 10.
 
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Metadaten
Titel
Nonlinear Wave Interaction in Coastal and Open Seas: Deterministic and Stochastic Theory
verfasst von
Raphael Stuhlmeier
Teodor Vrecica
Yaron Toledo
Copyright-Jahr
2019
Buch
Nonlinear Water Waves

Print ISBN: 978-3-030-33535-9

Electronic ISBN: 978-3-030-33536-6

Copyright-Jahr: 2019

DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-33536-6_10

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