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2023 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

5. What’s New Pussyhat?

verfasst von : Emily L. Newman

Erschienen in: Fashioning Politics and Protests

Verlag: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

The 2017 Women’s March on Washington and the #metoo movement have demonstrated that women’s bodies can and should be primary sites of resistance. From signage to pink pussyhats and graphic t-shirts, women decorated their bodies and clothing to challenge the conservative political power of the moment. More significantly, the physical presence of these bold statements and bright pink hats has dominated the powerful and aggressive calls for change. And what better way to argue in support of equal healthcare for women, abortion rights, and reuniting families than by utilizing a color that has historically been connected to women, as artfully presented by Valerie Steele. Further, ideas stemming from feminist protests and the Women’s March were incorporated by esteemed fashion designers at companies such as Missoni (Angela Missoni), Dior (Maria Grazia Chiuri), and even cheekily by Chanel (Karl Lagerfeld). When connected to the work of feminist art and performance precedents of the 1970s—artists like Carolee Schneemann, Tee Corrine, and Judy Chicago—this chapter will demonstrate the continued necessity of showing and presenting the female physique. The acceptability and dominance of vaginas and pussyhats would not have been possible without the feminist artists of the 1970s who threw their bodies into the work. In addition, the easily knittable pussyhats were inspired by the rise of craftivism, the making crafts and objects with an activist spirit by women around the world. The pussyhat pattern was accessible to all, the instructions were easy, and people were donating the yarn and the hats freely. In repurposing the actions of artists and craft activists, all the while re-inserting the actual, physical female form into the political discussion, women are refusing to allow their rights to be stripped easily.

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Fußnoten
1
Jayna Zweiman and Krista Suh, “Our Story,” The Pussyhat Project. https://​www.​pussyhatproject.​com/​our-story.
 
2
Zweiman and Suh, The Pussyhat Project.
 
3
Jack Santino, “Pussies Galore! Women, Power, and Protest at the 2017 March,” in Pussy Hats, Politics, and Public Protest, edited by Rachelle Hope Saltzman (Jackson, MI: University of Mississippi Press, 2020), 9–10. This book offers a very personal look at the protest, as it has been compiled by a folklorist. Seeking to compare the protests to Mikhail Bakhtin and his idea of the carnivalesque, the authors also work to show how the protests connect to broader narrative ideas and stories. Additionally, this book features numerous pictures of the signage and protests held at the Women’s March in Portland, Oregon, in 2017.
 
4
Qtd. in Julie Compton, “At 2nd annual Women’s March, some protesters left ‘pussy hats’ behind,” NBCNews.com, January 23, 2018, https://​www.​nbcnews.​com/​feature/​nbc-out/​2nd-annual-women-s-march-some-protesters-left-pussy-hats-n839901.
 
5
Santino, “Pussies Galore!” 10.
 
6
Cassad Fendlay, Sarah Sophie Flicker, Cindi Leive, and Paola Mendoza. Together We Rise: Behind the Scenes at the Protest Heard Around the World (New York: Dey Street Books, 2018), 257.
 
7
Fendley et al., Together We Rise, 166.
 
8
Paula vW. Dáil and Betty L. Wells, eds. We Rise to Resist: Voices from a New Era in Women’s Political Action (Jefferson, NC: McFarland & Company, 2018), 17; and Together We Rise, 13.
 
9
This article demonstrates how effectively intersectionality can be seen in the Women’s March by examining what causes marchers were showing up for and emphasizing. In the overlap of multiple causes, the March was effectively able to bring people of color, sexualities, and identities together. Dana R. Fisher, Dawn M. Dow, and Rashawn Ray, “Intersectionality takes it to the streets: Mobilizing across diverse interests for the Women’s March,” Science Advances 3, no. 9 (September 2017). This is further emphasized by Michael T. Heaney, who notes the repeated critiques that the movement faced, particularly rooted in the Whiteness of previous feminist movements, noting “Using evidence from surveys at five Women’s March rallies and four other protest events in Washington in 2018, my findings show that the Women’s March has indeed been successful in mobilizing people who support intersectional activism …. This finding suggests that the Women’s March has made good on its commitment to intersectional activism. By creating a diverse leadership and talking about intersectionality at events, it has attracted people with a commitment to this cause—or persuaded people in its movement to care more deeply about intersectionality.” See Michael T. Heaney, “Is the Women’s March focused on white women—or does it promote intersectional activism?” The Washington Post, July 8, 2019.
 
10
Elizabeth Currans, Marching Dykes, Liberated Sluts, and Concerned Mothers: Women Transforming Public Space (Champaign and Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Press, 2017), 182–183.
 
11
Dáil and Wells, eds., We Rise to Resist, 6.
 
12
Tim Wallace and Alicia Parlapiano, “Crowd Scientists Say Women’s March in Washington Had 3 Times as Many People as Trump’s Inauguration,” New York Times, January 22, 2017.
 
13
Dáil and Wells, eds., We Rise to Resist, 28.
 
14
Dáil and Wells, eds., We Rise to Resist, 22.
 
15
For examples of these signs and more, see Women’s March Organizers and Condé Nast, Together We Rise; Artisan, Why We March: Signs of Protest and Hope (New York: Artisan Books, 2017); Abrams Books, Why I March: Images from the Women’s March around the World (New York: Abrams Image, 2017); Greta Jaruševičiūtė, “235 of the Best Signs from Women’s Marches Around the World,” Bored Panda, 2017, https://​www.​boredpanda.​com/​best-protest-signs-womens-march-washington-donald-trump/​?​utm_​source=​google&​utm_​medium=​organic&​utm_​campaign=​organic.
 
16
Basil Rogger, Jonas Voegeli, and Ruedi Widmer, eds. Protest: The Aesthetics of Resistance (Baden, Switzerland: Lars Müller Publishers, 2018), 39.
 
17
The term was first used by her friend Buzz at a knitting circle, see Betsy Greer, “Craftivism Definition,” Craftivism 2020, www.​craftivism.​com/​definition.
 
18
Betsy Greer, Craftivism: The Art of Craft and Activism (Vancouver, British Columbia: Arsenal Pulp Press, 2014), 8.
 
19
Sarah Corbett, How to Be a Craftivist: The Art of Gentle Protest (London: Unbound, 2018), 3.
 
20
Kristy Robertson, “Rebellious Doilies and Subversive Stitches: Writing a Craftivist History,” in Extra / Ordinary: Craft and Contemporary Art, edited by Maria Elena Buszek (Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 2011): 184–185.
 
21
Corbett, How to Be a Craftivist, 30.
 
22
Corbett, How to Be a Craftivist, 125.
 
23
Corbett, How to Be a Craftivist, 212–219.
 
24
Rebecca E. Schuiling and Therèsa M. Winge, “Penetrating Knits: Feminists Knit ‘Cunty First’ and ‘The Pussyhat,’” in Fashion, Agency, and Empowerment: Performing Agency, Following Script, edited by Annette Lynch and Katalin Medvedev (London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2018), 132–133.
 
25
Faythe Levine and Cortney Heimerl, Handmade Nation: The Rise of DIY, Art, Craft, and Design (Princeton, NJ: Princeton Architectural Press, 2008), 35.
 
26
VJJ is not acronym; rather, it is pronounced va-jay-jay and is another word for vagina. This nickname was created by Shonda Rhimes for Grey’s Anatomy (“As We Know It,” Season 2, Episode 17, ABC, February 12, 2006). At the time, Rhimes explains the network was limiting the number of times the characters on the show could say “vagina,” while they had much more freedom with the word “penis.” By the time this specific episode came up, the network was further cracking down on the use of “vagina,” and in frustration, Rhimes and the writers’ room came up with vajayjay for a pivotal scene where Dr. Bailey is giving birth and telling an intern not to look at her vagina. Alanna Vagianos, “How Shonda Rhimes Unwillingly Coined the Term Vajayjay,” HuffPost, November 12, 2015.
 
27
Schuiling and Winge, “Penetrating Knits,’” 127.
 
28
Government Free VJJ, “About the Group,” Facebook.
 
29
For more information on this, see Jennifer Baumgardner and Amy Richards, Manifesta: Young Women, Feminism and the Future, Tenth Anniversary Edition (New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2010).
 
30
For key resources, see bell hooks, Ain’t I a Woman: Black Women and Feminism, 2nd Edition (New York and London, Routledge, 2014); Rebecca Walker, ed., To Be Real: Telling the Truth and Changing the Face of Feminism (Norwell, MA: Anchor, 1995); and Stacy Gillis, Gillian Howie, and Rebecca Munford, eds., Third Wave Feminism: A Critical Exploration, Expanded Second Edition (London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2007).
 
31
For more see Ariel Levy, Female Chauvinist Pigs: Women and the Rise of Raunch Culture (New York: Free Press, 2006); Mikki Kendall, Hood Feminism: Notes from the Women that a Movement Forgot (New York: Viking 2020); and Laurie Penny, Bitch Doctrine: Essays on Dissenting Adults (New York: Bloomsbury, 2017).
 
32
For more on the use of this phrase and its importance at the Women’s March, see Patricia Sawin, “I Can’t Believe I Still Have to Protest this Shit: Generational Variation and Solidarity Among Women’s March Participants,” in Pussy Hats, Politics, and Public Protests.
 
33
Lauren Downing Peters, “Reading the Subversive Stitch on the Eve of the Inauguration,” Fashion Studies Journal, January 20, 2017, http://​www.​fashionstudiesjo​urnal.​org/​longform/​2017/​1/​20/​reading-the-subversive-stitch-on-the-eve-of-the-inauguration?​rq=​subversive%20​inauguration.
 
34
Nancy Gildart, “Torn and Mended: Textile Actions at Ground Zero and Beyond,” in The Object of Labor: Art, Cloth, and Cultural Production, eds. Joan Livingstone and John Ploof (Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 2007), 252.
 
35
Sandy Black, Knitting: Fashion, Industry, Craft (London: Victoria & Albert Museum, 2012), 154.
 
36
Black, Knitting: Fashion, Industry, Craft, 153.
 
37
The first book was published in 2003. See Debbie Stoller, Stitch ’n Bitch: The Knitter’s Handbook (New York: Workman Publishing, 2003).
 
38
Qtd. in Robertson, “Rebellious Dollies and Subversive Stitches,” 191. See also Jennifer Baumgardner, F’em! Goo, Gaga, and Some Thoughts on Balls (Berkeley, CA: Seal Press, 2011): 73–82.
 
39
Malia Wollan, “Graffiti’s Cozy, Feminine Side,” New York Times, May 18, 2011.
 
40
Lauren Marmaduke, “Catching Up with Magda Saveg (a.k.a. Knitta Please),” Houston Press, July 26, 2011.
 
41
This is discussed in depth in Jenelle Porter, Fiber: Sculpture 1960–present (Munich: Prestel Publishing, 2014).
 
42
Roger Dunn, “The Changing Status and Recognition of Fiber Work Within the Realm of the Visual Arts,” in Stitching Resistance: Women, Creativity, and Fiber Arts, ed. Marjorie Agosin (Tunbridge Wells, England: Solis Press, 2014), 45.
 
43
Dunn, “The Changing Status and Recognition of Fiber Work,” 52.
 
44
Marilyn Kimmelman and Rebecca Leavitt in “American Women Crafting Cloth: From Bees to Blogs,” in Stitching Resistance, 62.
 
45
Rozsika Parker, The Subversive Stitch: Embroidery and the Making of the Feminine (Toronto, Canada: Women’s Press Ltd., 1984), 215.
 
46
Greer, Craftivism, 81.
 
47
Greer, Craftivism, 81.
 
48
Giulia Segreti, “Missoni Talks Politics with Pink Cat-Eared Hats at Milan Show,” Reuters, February 24, 2017.
 
49
Segreti, “Missoni Talks Politics.”
 
50
Segreti, “Missoni Talks Politics.”
 
51
Hettie Judah, “After the Year of the Pussy Hat, Can Fashion Activism Effect Change?” Artnet News, January 3, 2018.
 
52
Janelle Okwodu, “The Women’s March Pussyhat Takes Milan Fashion Week,” Vogue, February 25, 2017.
 
53
Okwodum “After the Year of the Pussy Hat.”
 
54
The information in this section regarding the history of pink is taken from this important book, unless otherwise noted. Valerie Steele, Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color (New York: Thames & Hudson, 2018).
 
55
Steele, Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color, 9–100.
 
56
Steele, Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color, 9–100; and Susan Golman Rubin, Hot Pink: The Life and Fashions of Elsa Schiaparelli (New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2015).
 
57
Steele, Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color, 9–100.
 
58
Steele, Pink: The History of a Punk, Pretty, Powerful Color, 9–100.
 
59
Gregory Babcock, “TBT: How Cam’ron Got All of Hip-Hop Wearing Pink,” Complex, October 1, 2015.
 
60
The color pink was and is unifying factor for a political group, as made clear in their name: CODEPINK. They define themselves as “CODEPINK is a women-led grassroots organization working to end U.S. wars and militarism, support peace and human rights initiatives, and redirect our tax dollars into healthcare, education, green jobs and other life-affirming programs.” At protests they wear pink and carry pink signs and even accessories (umbrellas, hats, and gloves); essentially, anything pink belonged. Yet, the group is not about fashion, nor craftivism, their use of pink is rooted in the color itself. For more information, see https://​www.​codepink.​org, 2022.
 
61
For a significant examination of the importance of Marilyn Moore’s pink gloves and dress, see Tom Fitzgerald and Lorenzo Marquez, “The Iconic Look: Marilyn Monroe’s Pink ‘Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend”’ Gown in ‘Gentlemen Prefer Blondes’ (1953),” Tom and Lorenzo: Fabulous and Opinionated, May 22, 2020.
 
62
Events such as the UN banning female genital mutilation in 2012, Malala Yousafzai’s Nobel Peace Prize win in 2014, the rise of Nancy Pelosi and Hillary Clinton in political spheres, just to name a few.
 
63
Qtd. in Rebecca Lowthorpe, “Dispatches from Paris: Chanel,” ELLE UK, September 30, 2014.
 
64
Jess Cartner-Morley, “Karl Lagerfeld’s New Look for Chanel: Feminist protest and Slogans,” The Guardian, September 30, 2014; and Megan Gibson, “Chanel Closes Fashion Show with Faux-Feminist Protest,” Time, September 30, 2014.
 
65
Gibson, “Chanel Closes Fashion Show with Faux-Feminist Protest.”
 
66
Alexander Fury, “Paris Fashion Week: Karl Lagerfeld Leads a Feminist Riot on ‘Boulevard Chanel,’” Independent, September 30, 2014.
 
67
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, We Should All Be Feminists (New York: Anchor Books, 2015).
 
68
Linda Nochlin, “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” ARTnews, January 1971, 22–39.
 
69
Emma McClendon, Power Mode: The Force of Fashion (Milan, Italy: Skira, 2018), 78.
 
70
To be clear, Bureau Bétak helped facilitate and construct Chicago’s design for the large form, though complete credit is repeatedly given to Chicago.
 
71
Alice Cavanagh, “Inside Judy Chicago’s Monumental Goddess Sculpture for Dior,” New York Times Style Magazine, January 20, 2020.
 
72
Jennifer Sauer, “What if Women Ruled the World?” CR Fashion Book, January 23, 2020.
 
73
Mille-fleurs is a type of design motif, popular originally in the early mid Renaissance period in Europe. Translated as a million flowers in French, the motif is simply the repetition of one or many kinds of flowers and flowering plants. Famous examples include the Lady of the Unicorn tapestry (circa 1500) and later adaptations in the works of William Morris in nineteenth-century England.
 
74
Sauer, “What if Women Ruled the World?”
 
75
Héloïse Salessy, “Dior Dreams Up Giant Goddess for its Haute Couture Show?” Vogue Paris, January 20, 2020.
 
76
Julia Roxan, “Dior Presents the Female Divine in Collaboration with Judy Chicago,” Luxuo, January 23, 2020.
 
77
For more information, see Reine-Marie Paris, Camille: The Life of Camille Claudel, Rodin’s Muse and Mistress (New York: Henry Holt & Company, 1988).
 
78
Lucy Lippard, “Busywork: The Real thing,” in Textiles, Community and Controversy: The Knitting Map, edited by Jools Gilson and Nicola Moffat (London: Bloomsbury, 2019), 49.
 
79
This information is reproduced and detailed extensively in Judy Chicago, The Dinner Party: From Creation to Preservation (New York: Merrell, 2007).
 
80
Notably, there is one exception to this, and that is the Sojourner Truth plate, the only African American represented with a plate setting has an Egyptian-inspired plate decorated with mask-like faces. Alice Walker criticizes, “All the other plates are creatively imagined vaginas … The Sojourner Truth plate is the only one in the collection that shows-instead of a vagina—a face. In fact, three faces. … It occurred to me that perhaps white women feminists, no less than white women generally, cannot imagine that Black women have vaginas.” Qtd in Jasmine Weber, “Judy Chicago Responds to Criticisms About the ‘Dinner Party,’” Hyperallergic, August 13, 2018.
 
81
Hilton Kramer, “Art: Judy Chicago’s ‘Dinner Party’ Comes to Brooklyn Museum,” New York Times, October 17, 1980.
 
82
Amelia Jones, “The ‘Sexual Politics’ of The Dinner Party: A Critical Context,” in Sexual Politics: Judy Chicago’s Dinner Party in Feminist Art History,” edited by Amelia Jones (Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 1996), 87.
 
83
Indeed, as Lucy Lippard has pointed out, at this time feminist artists were on the forefront of exploring and incorporating their lives into their artwork. Lucy R. Lippard, “Sweeping Exchanges: The Contribution of Feminism to the Art of the 1970s,” Art Journal 40, nos. 1–2, (Autumn–Winter 1980): 362. See also Lucy R. Lippard, “The Pains and Pleasures of Rebirth: European and American Women’s Body Art,” Art in America 64, no. 3 (May–June 1976): 122.
 
84
Joanna Frueh, “The Body Through Women’s Eyes,” in The Power of Feminist Art, edited by Norma Broude and Mary D. Garrad (New York: Thames and Hudson, 1994), 190.
 
85
Tee Corinne, Cunt Coloring Book (San Francisco, CA: Last Gasp, 1988), foreword.
 
86
For a fuller history and exploration of the book and the organization itself, see Kathy Davis, The Making of Our Bodies, Ourselves: How Feminism Travels Across Borders (Durham, NC and London: Duke University Press, 2007).
 
87
Saundra Goldman, “Gesture and the Regeneration of the Universe,” in Hannah Wilke: A Retrospective (Copenhagen: Nikolaj, Copenhagen Contemporary Art Center, 1998), 16.
 
88
Anna C. Chave, “‘I Object’ Hannah Wilke’s Feminism,” Art in America 97, no. 3 (March 2009): 104–8, 159; and Amelia Jones, Body Art: Performing the Body (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1998), 151–196.
 
89
“‘I Object’ Hannah Wilke’s Feminism,” 108.
 
90
Qtd. in Judith E. Stein and Ann-Sargent Wooster, “Making Their Mark,” in Making Their Mark: Women Artists Move into the Mainstream, 1970–1985, edited by Randy Rosen and Catherine C. Brawer (New York: Abbeville Press, 1989), 135.
 
91
Oral History Interview with Shigeko Kubota, conducted by Miwako Tezuka, October 11, 2009, at Kubota’s residence in New York City. https://​post.​at.​moma.​org/​content_​items/​344-interview-with-shigeko-kubota.
 
92
Alex Greenberger, “Shigeko Kubota, a Fluxus Artist and a Pioneer of Video Art, Dies at 77,” ARTnews, July 28, 2015.
 
93
Qtd. in Connie Butler, ed. WACK! Art and the Feminist Revolution (Los Angeles: The Museum of Contemporary Art and Cambridge: MIT Press, 2007), 256.
 
94
This piece was performed twice, once in Easthampton, Long Island, New York on August 29, 1975, and once at the Telluride Film Festival in Telluride, Colorado on September 4, 1977. See Bruce R. McPherson, ed., More than Meat Joy: Carolee Schneemann: Performance Works and Selected Writings (Kingston, NY: Documentext/McPherson and Company, 1997), 234.
 
95
The entire text is quoted in More than Meat Joy, 238–239.
 
96
More than Meat Joy, 234.
 
97
For a full exploration of the vagina in art, I urge you to seek out The Visible Vagina. Anna C. Chave, The Visible Vagina (New York: Francis M. Naumann Fine Art and David Nolan Gallery, 2010); and Amelia Jones, ed., Sexual Politics: Judy Chicago’s Dinner Party in Feminist Art History,” (Berkeley, CA: University of California Press, 1996).
 
98
Jo Livingstone, “Who’s Afraid of Judy Chicago?,” The New Republic, September 17, 2021; and Noreen McGonigle, “Judy Chicago’s Dinner Party: Contextualizing the Critical Reaction,” Art Journal 1, no. 5 (2019). https://​digitalcommons.​providence.​edu/​cgi/​viewcontent.​cgi?​article=​1102&​context=​art_​journal.
 
99
Among many other sources, see Eliza Relman, “The 25 Women Who Have Accused Trump of Sexual Misconduct,” Business Insider, May 1, 2020; Clark Mindock, “Trump’s Sexual Assault Allegations: The Full List of Women Who Have Accused the President,” Independent, December 2, 2019; and Lisa Desjardins, “All the Assault Allegations Against Donald Trump, Recapped,” PBS News Hour, June 21, 2019, https://​www.​pbs.​org/​newshour/​politics/​assault-allegations-donald-trump-recapped.
 
100
For more information on these actions, see Peter Beinart, “The New Authoritarians Are Waging War on Women,” The Atlantic, January/February 2019; Michael Scherer and Josh Dawsey, “As Trump Slumps, His Campaign Fixes on a Target: Women,” Washington Post, June 22, 2020; Ritu Prasad, “How Trump Talks about Women—and Does It Matter?,” BBC News, November 29, 2019; and Danielle Zoellner, “Five Major Things Trump Has Done to Roll Back Women’s Rights,” Independent, March 6, 2020.
 
101
Jonathan Knuckey, “‘I Just Don’t Think She Has a Presidential Look’: Sexism and Vote Choice in the 2016 Election,” Social Science Quarterly 100, no. 1 (November 2018), 342–358; and Valerie Rothwell, Gordon Hodson, and Elvira Prusaczyk, “Why Pillory Hillary? Testing the Endemic Sexism Hypothesis Regarding the 2016 U.S. Election,” Personality and Individual Differences 138 (February 2019): 106–108.
 
102
Robin Givhan, “The MAGA Hat vs. Public School,” in Power Mode, ed. McClendon.
 
103
Givhan, “The MAGA Hat vs. Public School.”
 
104
I am attempting here to view the pussyhat as inclusive, even while some disagree as discussed earlier. Here, I see the pussyhat representing the opposite of Trump and someone who believes supported progressive politics. I still recognize the problematic perception that many have seen with the essentialism of the pussyhats as well as the problem with the name, but hope that instead of seeing the hat as polarizing within the community I want to encourage a reading where the pussyhats could be seen as thinking about the idea of woman as broadly inclusive and meant to include transwomen, non-binary folks, and anyone who identified as a woman. Simultaneously, I do not want to deny any person of their identity, but I hope a broader conception of the pussyhat can be considered.
 
105
Dáil and Wells, eds., We Rise to Resist, 6.
 
106
Rogger, Voegeli, and Widmer, eds., Protest, 39.
 
Metadaten
Titel
What’s New Pussyhat?
verfasst von
Emily L. Newman
Copyright-Jahr
2023
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-16227-5_5