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2016 | OriginalPaper | Buchkapitel

Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach

verfasst von : Artem Rodin, Ira Didenkulova, Efim Pelinovsky

Erschienen in: Extreme Ocean Waves

Verlag: Springer International Publishing

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Abstract

The transformation and run-up of long breaking bell-shaped wave pulses of various polarities is studied numerically in the nonlinear shallow-water theory framework using CLAWPACK software. The considered water basin contains a section of constant depth and a section of a slopping beach. For small-amplitude incident waves regardless their polarity, the results of numerical computations usually coincide with predictions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory for non-breaking waves. Nonlinear effects start to be important when incident wave is located far from the shoreline even for initially small-amplitude waves. With further increase in incident wave amplitude, the wave transforms into the shock wave (bore) before approaching the beach. Run-up characteristics of waves of different polarities are compared. Nonlinear effects and induced energy dissipation caused by wave breaking during its run-up on a beach are more prominent for negative pulses rather than for positive ones.

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Titel: Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach
verfasst von: Artem Rodin
Ira Didenkulova
Efim Pelinovsky
Verlag: Springer International Publishing
Buch: Extreme Ocean Waves
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-21574-7

Electronic ISBN: 978-3-319-21575-4

Copyright-Jahr: 2016
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-21575-4_9